Matställen i Tallinn

Pizza Americana
Müürivahe 2, tel. 644 88 37, fax 631 33 43. Open 11:30 - 22:30, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. Pikk 1-3, tel. 644 07 10, fax 631 33 43. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Delivery, tel. 644 88 37. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED OUTSIDE SEATING
Peaches on your pizza? Yes, that and elk meat, if you're brave. The deep-dish pizzas aren't quite Chicago-style, but they haven't got much competition. Load up at the salad bar, or on their cocktail of the day. Thursday is student day. Sunday is family day, with large pizzas for 85EEK and lollies for the kiddies.

Argentina
Pärnu mnt.19, tel. 660 51 77, fax 631 06 20. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
After a day rounding up the herds in rugged terrain, husky Argentinian farmers need protein, and lots of it. That's what you'll find here: plate-sized steaks, cooked up on an open grill in the centre of the room. The rancheros here, however, are a civilised sort: main dishes automatically come with warm rolls and fresh green salad. We've never been lucky enough to witness their floor show.

Georgian, Armenian and Azerbaijani cuisine all lay claim to forms of harcho (spicy lamb soup), hachapuri (cheesy bread), lavash (plain bread), dolma (stuffed grape leaves) and shashlyk (meat cooked on a stick).

Arzu
behind Kosmos Cinema. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
Chicken, lamb or pork kebabs served in a no-nonsense box of a building. So good you'll want to lick your fingers - and nobody here would raise an eyebrow. This is a good place to try one of those delectable, unpronounceable Georgian wines, which elsewhere might cost as much as a fine French vintage.

Exit
Sauna 2, tel. 644 20 31, fax 644 83 17. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Exit's proprietor used to fly to Tbilisi for the weekend just to enjoy harcho, lavash, dolma, hachapuri and kebab. Now he serves up these hearty southern dishes arranged like nouvelle cuisine on delicate china in a sleek, urban atmosphere. Don't think of it as disparity, think of it as the best of both worlds.

Kaukaasia
Lembitu 14, tel. 660 50 21. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
What more do you need on a Caucasian menu than four kinds of kebab and a plate full of dolma? What more do you need in interior decorating than oriental rugs on the wall and a few swords? Kaukaasia is minimalist, but satisfying and inexpensive (main dishes 60 - 90EEK). Add 10% for delivery.

Morimer
Faehlmanni 37, tel. 601 52 50/(8-251) 13 093. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
The waitress advised us so strongly against the hash, an Armenian jellied meat dish "so fatty you can't get a spoon into it", that we obediently ordered kebab and dolma instead - for about 40EEK each! A strictly local place buried deep among the wooden houses of Kadriorg, Morimer is better known as Armeenia ja Eesti köök (Armenian and Estonian cooking), as the sign says.

Sahdaq
Tartu 81. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
Dining here is an adventure - from seeking out the restaurant in the slightly shady area just past the bus station to deciphering the menu. They claim to serve Azerbaijani cuisine (main dishes 20 - 60EEK), but don't add much commentary to help those of us born west of the Urals. We like the way the plastic placemats compliment the Oriental prints on the walls.

Even though most Chinese dishes are impossible to eat on their own, you still need to order (and pay for) rice separately at most of Tallinn's Chinese restaurants. Nor do you get chopsticks automatically.

Ai Sha Ni Ya
Mere pst. 6, tel. 660 18 42. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
One of the early birds on Tallinn's ethnic restaurant scene, Ai Sha Ni Ya ('Es-to-ni-a' in Mandarin) has paper lanterns and lion-headed chopstick holders. Newer arrivals, however, are putting more emphasis on authentic cuisine. The service, too, doesn't quite keep pace.

China Town
Kärberi 34a, tel. 635 67 95, fax 635 67 93. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
It's a long way to come for Chinese food, but out here in Lasnamäe you'll find the same quality as you will in the centre, at considerably lower prices. The Chinese chef has 24 years of experience in the kitchen. And get this: sticky rice. Take bus N°51 or 53 from the centre.

Golden Dragon
Pikk 37, tel. 631 35 06, fax 641 93 48. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED FIREPLACE
It's hard to walk right past the Golden Dragon - even when you're headed somewhere else. The delicious aroma has been known to tempt people in off the street. Service is warm and gracious. Dishes are served on warming trays (with rice!) so that you can linger over your aubergine in garlic sauce. Worth every cent.

Hong Lou
Vineeri 4, tel./fax 626 18 47. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Sincerity and service are the key words at the Red House. From ornate trappings to gracious smiles and a lengthy menu, you'll find all the familiar traits of a Chinese restaurant.

Kathmandu
Rataskaevu 3/5, tel./fax 644 02 54. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Although the name clearly suggests Nepal, the menu includes familiar Chinese fare. The deep armchairs certainly add ambience, but we're not sure what kind. A full meal starts at 100EEK.

Little China
Vene 30, tel. 631 31 26, fax 631 30 57. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
A meal here is a leisurely ceremony, as it should be, from an array of appetisers to jasmine tea. Try sesame fried pork, chicken fingers and spicy soups. The restaurant also has a sauna with plunge pool.

Teater
Lai 31, tel. 646 62 61. Open 11:00 - 22:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED FIREPLACE
This ain't Louisiana, honey, and if you miss the Vieux Carré, then you might should get yourself a ticket to the pelican state rather than looking for Cajun cooking in Tallinn. The decor is tasteful, but Teater could use a bit of staff training. Lunch specials until 15:00 on weekdays. Opening hours are likely to change

The most common menu items in Tallinn seem to be seljanka (thick soup) and schnitzel, but neither of these are originally Estonian cuisine. True Estonian favourites are sült (jellied meat), mulgikapsas (fatty sauerkraut), rollmops (herring rolls) and kama (a mixture of ground cereals. Believe it or not, Chinese food is easier to find in Tallinn.

Lydia
Koidula 13a, tel. 641 05 59, fax 641 05 50. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED OUTSIDE SEATING
Lydia serves up a lyrical menu befitting the restaurant's namesake, poet Lydia Koidula. Choose from the Seamen's Memoirs, the Poet's Favourite, or the Gardener's Love and cap off with a Polar Bear's Dream. Mommies and daddies of picky eaters need only give a whisper to the waiter, who'll cook up whatever it is the little one eats.

Mihkli Trahter
Endla 23, tel. 631 10 79, fax 45 17 67. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
The Mihkli Hotel's new restaurant feels a bit like your standard, off-the-shelf ethnic restaurant, with exposed beams and wooden everything. The menu, while not long, does offer some good deals.

Tallinna Eesti Maja
Lauteri 1, tel. 645 52 52/699 21 00, fax 699 21 01. Open 11:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
A favourite for showing off Estonian cooking at it's most visitor-friendly, Tallinn's Estonian House is the place to try sült, mulgikapsas, kama and even Estonian wines (bear in mind that grapes don't grow this far north, but grapes are not the only fermentable fruit in the world). Their lunch buffet is filling at 75EEK.

Vanaema Juures
Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. 626 90 80, fax 626 90 99. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Your Granny may not have served up mulgikapsad and wild boar, but the Estonian memm at Granny's place does. Granny's veal and honey-glazed chicken are more familiar and just as tasty.

Le Bonaparte
Pikk 46, tel. 646 44 44, fax 646 42 63. A la carte open 15:00 - 19:00. Cellar open 12:00 - 24:00. Patisserie open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. NEW CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
See Upscale.

Cathedral
Lossi plats 2/Toom-Kooli 1, tel. 644 35 48, fax 644 23 45. Open 12:00 - 23:00. TC CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
A blend of French and Russian culinary traditions in a very haute atmosphere. The innovative interior is too bright to be intimate, but worth a look in itself. A great way to splurge. Free health cocktail with any meal for Tallinn Card holders.

Creperie Chez Grigou
Müürivahe 23a, tel. 631 43 37. Open 11:30 - 01:00.
It's all about atmosphere. Even after the occasional crunchy crepe, we still find ourselves drawn back to this candle-lit café, sharing a cafetiere of coffee and listening to syrupy chansons. Crepes (30 - 50EEK) come sweet or savoury; salads are generously sized.

Le Paris
Toompuiestee 27, tel. 667 71 05, fax 667 71 47. Open 12:00 - 22:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
The Grand Hotel Mercure's new restaurant is nearly as vast as its namesake city. Dishes on the a la carte menu start at 70EEK, while you can enjoy a full buffet dinner, from appetisers to dessert for 250EEK (lunch buffet 12:00 - 14:00, dinner 18:00 - 22:00). Come for brunch Sunday mornings at 11:00.

Baieri Kelder
Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. 631 39 94, fax. 631 39 92. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Any Bavarian with a hearty appetite would feel at home here. Portions are so huge that most appetisers are enough to satisfy. The Bavarian Cellar is also known as a great place for sharing a few pints.

Bierstube
Süda 7, tel./fax 646 18 47. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Just slightly off the beaten path, the Bierstube is a great place to relax with some artery-stopping German food in a tourist-free atmosphere.

Kabinet
Pärnu 48, tel./fax 644 09 54. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Flaming sausages and fried cheese. Wash it all down with a heifeweisse. The pool table in back attracts a young crowd. Weekday specials 36 - 46EEK.

Waikiki
Lai 49, tel.641 12 54/(8-250) 54 295. Open 12.00 - 23:00. NEW
Pacific Islanders are notoriously large people. A trip to this restaurant on the edge of Old Town may provide some clues as to why. Portions are enormous and tasty, though we can't personally vouch for their authenticity. Pork and soy sauce lovers will be very happy here.

Egeri Kelder
Roosikrantsi 6, tel. 644 84 15, tel./fax 641 15 55. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
We can't vouch for the authenticity of the goulash, but it is tasty: a runny stew with tender chunks of meat. The cook could be a little bolder with the spices. The restaurant seems to be aiming a class too high with its interior. Rent their sauna for parties.

Kapten Tenkes
Pärnu 30, tel. 644 56 30. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
The swashbuckling Captain Tenkes was the pride of the Magyars in Communist-era films. His namesake restaurant has similar pomp and flare: from the wandering fiddler to the giant carafes of wine.

Elevant
Vene 5, tel. 631 31 32. Open 12:00 - 24:00. TC CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED FIREPLACE
Once a homey bar-cum-restaurant on the edge of Old Town, Elevant has risen from the ashes and been reincarnated as a classy restaurant just a few steps from Town Hall Square. Fortunately, prices for chicken tikka, biryani and raita are still just a tad below those elsewhere. Main dishes 70 - 100EEK. The weekday lunch buffet (12:00 - 15:00) is a good deal at 75EEK. Free pot of tea for Tallinn Card holders.

Kuldne Lõvi
Nunne 18, tel. 646 41 39. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED OUTSIDE SEATING
The Golden Lion manages to cover most of the continent with Asian dishes from kebab (as an appetiser?) to a few menu items 'in the Chinese style'. Mains go for 60 - 90EEK in this tiered teal dining room. 12:00 - 24:00. 12:00 - 24:00.

Maharaja
Raekoja plats 13, tel. 644 43 67, fax 631 30 57. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
As the Maharaja's guest you will be met with the utmost formality in this ornate dining room (and formal dress will also be expected of you). Portions of raita, masala and other traditional dishes are also princely in size. Unfortunately, when the restaurant is full it can feel less than intimate.

Sanjay's Indian Café
Meriväljatee 5/ Pirita beach house. Open 11:00 - 20:00.
Granted, it's a long way from the centre, but whatever you spend on a bus ticket you'll certainly save on delicious chicken tikka, biryani and other favourites (about 45EEK). Take bus N1 or 8 to the Pirita stop.

Tanduur
Vene 7/Apteegi 6, tel. 631 30 84. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Tanduur's Indian proprietor claims to have decorated his restaurant just as he would decorate his own home and to serve the same quality and authenticity he himself demands. A feast for the eyes and the mouth.

Gnoom
Viru 2, tel. 644 24 88/644 10 73, fax 644 09 47. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
The medieval interior is still the main attraction, even after a menu overhaul. Downstairs the Linnakodanike kelder offers more casual meals and a pointed nonchalance.

Eeslitall
Dunkri 4/6, tel. 631 37 55, fax 631 32 10. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Two different menus on two different levels. Head downstairs to the vaulted cellar for a more casual meal, or enjoy the formality of the ground-floor dining room. The Donkey's Stable gets high praise for serving Saaremaa beer. The coatcheck guy is a charmer, but you still have to pay him 5EEK.

Karikas
Kuninga 3, tel. 44 25 88. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Bar open 12:00 - 02:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
With dishes like chateaubriand and prince's seafood, this place ranks among the elegant and pricey.

Leonardo
Palace Hotel, Vabaduse väljak 3, tel. 640 74 00. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
The Palace Hotel's ground floor restaurant is known for its national weeks, highlighting a particular country's cuisine, but even the simplest items on their menu, down to the omelettes and the espresso have been praised.

Lepido
Pärnu 364, tel. 51 32 53. Open 12:00 - 24:00. FIREPLACE OUTSIDE SEATING
The neighbourhood atmosphere, large portions and reasonable prices (40 - 60EEK) at this new restaurant in the Nõmme suburb have people talking all across Tallinn. Other draws are a sauna (150EEK/hr for two people) and plenty of parking (good thing, since this place is difficult to reach by public transport).

Linnaisa Juures
Aia 2, tel. 644 45 73. Open 10:00 - 22:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Sometimes it seems like Estonia has gone Euro-loco. The City Father's restaurant has built an entire menu around the EU theme, with a dish from each of the member countries (Ireland's lamb stew has been praised). Better for lunch than for dinner. The daily special is a bargain at 33EEK.

Maiasmokk
Pikk 16, tel. 646 40 49. Open 11:00 - 22:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Delightfully old-fashioned, down to the doddering old fellow who will show you to the door. This ? la carte restaurant, above Tallinn's oldest café, is a surprisingly affordable spot for a full-course meal.

Olematu Rüütel
Kiriku põik 4a, tel. 631 38 27, fax 631 38 26. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
The Non-Existent Knight goes full-out on the chivalric theme, from courtly service to coats of arms on the wall. The menu is more varied, from Stackelberg's medallions to the Knight's dish to 'Indonesian meat on a stick'. Main dishes run about 70 - 120EEK.

Roosikrantsi Restoran
Roosikrantsi 1/Vabaduse väljak 7, tel. 640 44 99/640 44 87, fax 644 65 36. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
A favourite with anyone entertaining international guests, Roosikrantsi specialises in Belgian cuisine (cooked up by a true Belgian chef), but also dabbles in other delicacies, such as steak au poivre and carpaccio.

Sub Monte
Rüütli 4, tel. 646 41 83. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
This underground restaurant serves its fare a bit stiffly, but their cuisine is on the mark. A medieval backdrop suitable for a professional lunch or a formal dinner. Once upon a time, Sub Monte was even voted one of th best in a Linnaleht poll.

Vana Major
Voorimehe 4/Kinga 3, tel. 631 43 08/8 252 92 386. Open 09:00 - 04:00.
How could a hungry tourist walk by this restaurant's newest incarnation (remember Danhammer?). Signs touting 'Tallinn's biggest steaks' and cheap vodka pull them in off Raekoja plats, while unctuous waiters await them inside. Main dishes 70-150EEK, pastas (Bolognese, gorgonzola) 35-40EEK.

Vana Saku
Pärnu 555, Peoleo Hotel, tel. 650 39 64, fax 650 39 00. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED OUTSIDE SEATING
Several kilometres out of town, toward the village of Saku, the Vana Saku is known for its family-friendly style. The menu is long but undistinguished.

Wana Tunnel
Harju 6, tel. 631 06 31. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
A surprising find three metres below the business complex, the Old Tunnel treats you to healthy, hearty meals and old-fashioned politesse. Unique and intimate.

Buon Giorno
Müürivahe 17, tel. 640 68 58. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Lost track of a homesick Italian friend? You're sure to find him here. Feeling a little nostalgic for Bella Italia yourself? This is the place to come. Packed at lunchtime, when it seems that Tallinn's entire Italian community is having panini and zuppo, quieter in the evening, when you can enjoy grilled meats and chat with the waitstaff.

Casanova
Rataskaevu 3/5, tel./fax 644 11 52. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Those in the know have called Casanova's risotto the best in town, but the ravioli could be more cooked and still be al dente. The atmosphere is formal, which is reflected in the prices. Main dishes, including octopus, mussels and something called 'fishrod alla Casanova' run 60 to 220EEK, while the menu turistico is just 100EEK.

Controvento
Vene 12/Katariina käik, tel. 644 04 70, fax 631 35 20. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Café open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, 11:00 - 01:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED FIREPLACE OUTSIDE SEATING
Even though the upstairs restaurant has expanded to include the entire top floor, if you come without a reservation you may still find yourself without a table. Meanwhile, the lucky people sitting down are enjoying sizeable pizzas (50 - 75EEK), pasta dishes (70 - 90EEK) and meat and fish dishes (100EEK +). Drinks and panini in the downstairs café. If you're pining for a pizza, you'll have to wait until 19:00.

II Passatore
Müürivahe 52, tel. 644 05 71. Open 12:30 - 23.00.CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED NEW
We'd been told explicitly that Il Passatore specialises in peasant-style Italian meat dishes. And yet we still ordered the pasta - only to realise our mistake when the waitress passed by with heaping platters of juicy roasts for the other diners. Save (lots) of room for dessert.

Pasta Americana
Pikk 1-3, tel. 644 07 10, fax 631 33 43. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
As the name implies, this casual hangout is more New World than Old Country. Choose from 12 different pasta dishes and expect sizeable portions. Very kid- and teenager-friendly.

Pizzeria Margareta
Palace Hotel, Vabaduse väljak 3, tel. 640 73 00, fax 640 72 99.
As of early September, Margareta will be no more. While we still don't know the name or style of the new eatery coming in her place, we hope it will meet the standards set by Leonardo, the Palace Hotel's larger restaurant.

Primavera
Central Hotel, Narva 7, tel. 633 98 91, fax 633 99 00. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
This glass-walled retreat above a busy street serves delicious, spicy pizzas alongside pastas and salads.

Ami-Ja
Narva 36, tel. 646 60 96, fax 633 99 00. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Don't be turned off by the bright, cafeteria-feel: as soon as the waitress brings the sushi you'll be in your own little world of chopsticks and delicate dishes. The ramen is a steaming artistic creation that will make you swear off those little packets forever. For a real taste of Japan, ask to be seated in the tatami room, or for a go at the karaoke machine. Not for a quick or inexpensive meal.

Shalom
Kopli 14, tel./fax 644 11 95. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
We can't guarantee that it's kosher, but Shalom is Tallinn's only remotely Jewish dining option, serving both gefilte fish and matzo soup. The interior is bewilderingly blue.

Ari-Ran
Telliskivi 35, tel. 49 42 75, fax 49 36 48. Open 11:00 - 22:00.
Believe the waitress if she says your dish will be hot, but don't let her bully you into ordering something else. Somewhere down the line Ari-Ran does have a genuine Korean connection.

Kim
Filtri 1, tel. 601 41 02. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
One of the very first international restaurants to open in the early '90s, Kim's menu hasn't developed much since. No tiny dried fish, but the kimchee is a tasty side. You can't miss the flashing sign right behind the bus station.

Zeppelin
Tartu 6, tel. 661 20 99. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
A zeppelin, or cepelinas, is a Lithuanian stuffed potato dumpling about the shape and nearly the size of an American football. When we last ordered one here, however, we were served something most closely resembling a pork chop cordon bleu. After confused queries, we were offered zemaiciu blynai - stuffed, fried mashed potato patties. So much for Baltic unity.

Olevimägi
Uus 25/Olevimägi 16, tel. 641 10 34. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
Borsch and blini are homey foods, but they are served up here with a formality typical of Russian culture. The bright, open dining room is fine for lunch, but feels a little off in the evenings.

Ostap
Mere 5, tel. 631 36 97. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Russian favourites from kasha (bulgur wheat porridge) to caviar to classier roast meat and fish dishes range from 40 to 160EEK. Friendly, but does everything need to be so pink?

Soti Klubi
Uus 31/33, tel. 641 16 66, fax 631 30 43. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
A gracious country club on the outside, the Scottish Club feels more claustrophobic on the inside. The seafood salad was a treat, but the service was far from professional. Scott-o-philes gather here once a month. And yes, they do have haggis.

Emilio Hidalgo
Pärnu 9, tel. 644 98 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
If your mouth is watering for real Spanish paella, give Emilio the Knight a good two hours' notice and bring three friends along (only cooked for four). The rest of the menu is less piquant, but they do serve fajitas.

Cantina Carramba
Weizenbergi 20a, tel. 601 34 31, fax 601 34 32.Open 12:00 - 23:00. TC
Estonia's politicos come all the way out to Kadriorg for Mexican meals and so should you. Ranchero-sized portions will satisfy, but the spice level may not. You must try the ice cream with jalapeno sauce. Trust us. The house drink special comes free with any meal for Tallinn Card holders.

Ervin's Tex-Mex
Lauteri 5, tel. 610 68 48. Open 12:00 - 23:00,Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC NEW
Ervin has picked up and moved house, downsizing at the same time. But while the location is new, the decor, menu and waiters all look very familiar. Last time we were here we had excellent grilled salmon and a burrito that left a lot to be desired.

Siam
Olevimägi 4, tel.641 24 56.Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED NEW.
Two cooks from Thailand preside over the kitchen, while elegance and calm reign in the dining room. Even before you step inside, however, the tempting fragrances of Thai cuisine (halfway between Indian and Chinese, as the soft-voiced proprietor describes) will win you over.

Sue Ka Thai
Vilmsi 6, tel. 641 93 47. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED NEW
From the very day he opened its doors, Raj Chaudhary's new Thai restaurant had a following. Thai devotees and errant expats had already come back from Vilnius raving about Sue Ka Thai. Now Tallinners, too, can taste spicy soups, delicate spring rolls and robust satay sauce.

Liivi Steakhouse
Narva 1 (ground floor of post office), tel. 625 73 77, fax 661 62 79. Open 10:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
An unlikely location for a hearty steak, but this is the place to go when primordial carnivorous urges just won't be satisfied with a burger. Steaks run about 88 - 132EEK.

Les Mousquetaires
Grand Hotel Mercure, Toompuiestee 27, tel. 667 71 50. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
The Mercure's relaxed bistro serves up a variety of grilled meats for around 100EEK, although the paté de foie gras will put a little more tension on your pocket book. Also check out the hotel's posher le Paris, café Mademoiselle and Eiffel Club.

Space Bar
Sakala 19, tel./fax 641 82 12. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00.
Tallinn's old guard movers and shakers have made this place so much their own that they've donated their favourite recipes to make up the new grill menu. Exotic sauces dress up pork, fish and chicken. Watch for further changes.

St Hubertus
Dunkri 8, tel. 644 10 85. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED FITNESS ROOM
You don't have to be a hunter yourself to enjoy fine game. St Hubertus, the patron saint of hunters, serves up quail, wild rabbit, red deer, wild boar and elk with lingonberry sauce in addition to a fresh catch-of-the-day. Expect to pay about 110 - 160EEK for a main dish and expect to savour it.

Admirali Klubi
Lootsi 15, tel. 641 11 55, fax 631 84 44. Open 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
More than just a fish restaurant, this elegant steamship docked in the passenger harbour near D-Terminal offers a mile-long menu showing influences from as far off as the Balkans (shopska salad with brynza cheese, a Serbian appetiser with slivovic liqueur, chicken satsivi, palachinki). The fish-wary can stick with lamb, veal and chicken, while their fish-loving friends can choose from a long list of charcoal-grilled courses.

Merevärava
Põhja 27, tel. 641 10 82. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
The only things in the Seagate restaurant that may start you humming 'Under the Sea' are the fountain burbling away in the corner and a fairly decent salmon soup. Otherwise, there are only a few seafood dishes hiding among the usual pork chops and schnitzel on the menu. Planning to stay to dance? The dance floor is 1m2.

Mõõkkala
Rüütli 16/18, tel. 631 35 83, fax 631 84 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
We dare you: order the slimy lamprey appetiser and the eel entree (both Estonian favourites). Those more squeamish about seafood will find an excellent sea tiger (a mild white fish) in with spinach and berry sauce (trust us). Non fish-eaters should stay away altogether. Expect to linger over your meal. The service, while friendly, could use some training.

Kolm Krabi
Kotka 26, tel. 613 76 13. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
This new restaurant in the garden region of Kristiine, just outside the city centre, leads a double life. Until 15:00 on weekdays, locals come for cheap schnitzel and potatoes served cafeteria-style. From 16:00 on, Three Crabs lives up to its name, offering seafood from herring to salmon and a few token meat dishes. Main dishes cost around 100EEK. Take bus N°23 from Estonia Theatre to the Ööbiku stop.

Olde Hansa
Vanaturg 1, tel. 627 90 20, fax 627 90 21. Open 10:30 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC OUTSIDE SEATING
Prepare your tastebuds: the cooks at Olde Hansa do things with bulgur wheat, turnips and pumpkin that you never thought possible. (The sceptical should be reassured that medieval lords also ate fine cuts of meat, which are available as well.) With waiters and waitresses in period costume and medieval background music, Olde Hansa's atmosphere has attracted quite a clientele. Be prepared to wait for a table.

Padakonna Kõrts
Rüütli 28/30, tel./fax 641 84 43. Open 10:00 - 24:00. TC CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED OUTSIDE SEATING FIREPLACE LIVE MUSIC
In bringing Medieval Tallinn to life, Padakonna Kõrts has gone beyond the call of duty, using little electric lighting and dusting off authentic medieval recipes from the archives. Their spiced house wine is a must. 10% off meals with the Tallinn Card. The restaurant may stay open later into the long summer evenings. Plans are still inching ahead to offer accommodation.

Damodara
Lauteri 1, tel. 644 26 50. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Ask the sweet waitress (she's the one in the sari) to explain the dishes on the unpronounceable menu. Vegan cuisine based on the tenets of Vedic philosophy has got to be good for you - both physically and karmicly. Hare Krishna. Hare Hare.

Samaaria
Vaimu 3, tel. 641 17 67. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Humble, 100% vegetarian fare served up by a Christian group for next to nothing.

Le Bonaparte
Pikk 46, tel. 646 44 44, fax 646 42 63. A la carte open 15:00 - 19:00, Cellar open 12:00 - 24:00. Patisserie open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
This exquisitely restored 17th-century home is a fitting venue for the venerable traditions of French cuisine. Your chef, Gaston, has chosen the brief menu with care and the French maitre d'h?te will see to your every need. The menu dégustatsion (700EEK) changes weekly. Le Cellier offers an equally delectable menu (onion soup, avocados, steack au poivre) at more Tallinn-like prices. Save room for dessert!

Egoist
Vene 33, tel. 646 40 52, fax 646 40 25, egoist@teleport.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
E. for Egoist above the door and D. for Demjanov on the silverware. The man behind Tallinn's elite Gloria restaurant has gone all out to satisfy the egoist in us all - those who can afford it that is. An exquisite three-course meal, excluding wine, costs from 480EEK. The man named Estonia's finest sommelier in 1998 will help you to choose among 1000 wines. Ring the bell to enter.

Elysée
Olümpia Hotel, Liivalaia 33, tel. 631 58 91. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
Where else could you start with a real American Caesar salad, followed by crab ravioli in an Asian-inspired ginger sauce and finish up with crepes suzette (done right)? Elysée's menu is as long and varied as the pastel dining room is vast. Anyone on a restricted diet will appreciate the menu's careful labelling.

Gloria
Müürivahe 2, tel. 644 69 50, fax 646 61 80, gloria@estpak.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
All we need to say is this: the Pope has eaten here. As have George Soros and Lech Walesa and Finnish presidents Urho Kekkonen and Martti Ahtisaari. Condé Nast named Gloria one of Eastern Europe's best. In their exclusive Tabacalera smoking is not only permitted, it is required. More than 500 kinds of cigars.

Kalev Yacht Club
Pirita 17, tel. 23 91 21, fax 23 90 28. Open 11:00 - 01:00.CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Sailing is out of the question for the next few months, but you can gather with the old sea hands here for a stylish meal. Worth the trip out of town.

Karl Friedrich
Raekoja plats 5, a la carte, tel. 627 24 13, fax 627 24 11. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Pub open 10:00 - 24:00. Karli Kelder open 11:00 - 01:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED OUTSIDE SEATING
Recent renovations have updated the Karl Friedrich to a more formal class. The menu is still long and varied. Try the Karli Kelder in the cellar for a casual drink. Meals are also served alfresco, right on Town Hall Square.

Katamaraan
Regati 1, tel. 639 80 78, fax 639 80 77. Open 07:00 - 10:00, 11:30 - 23:00. Sun 08:00 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23: 00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
A classy choice right by the Pirita Hotel with a heavily sailboat-influenced motif. Enormous portions. Breakfast buffet 65EEK.

Lembitu
Kloostri 6, Pirita, tel. 23 75 57, fax 23 21 32. Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
Tucked between St Bridget's Convent and the riverbank in the Pirita district to the north of the centre, the Peoleo restaurant chain's Lembitu features changing menus from the Mediterranean, Mexico and around the world.

Merineitsi
Viru Hotel, Viru väljak 4, tel. 630 17 72, fax 630 13 03, reservation@viru.estpak.ee. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
The Viru Hotel's restaurant helpful converts all prices into Finnish marks right on the menu. And indeed, they do offer some good deals on steaks and other filling meals. Merineitsi was recently named the city's best restaurant in a Linnaleht poll. No, really. Breakfast buffet served 07:00 - 11:00, 95EEK.

Park Avenue
Park Hotel, Kreutzwaldi 23, tel. 630 53 42, fax 630 53 15. Open 06:30 - 10:00,12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
The Park Hotel restaurant's generous all-day buffet has gotten raves. And the fried ox fillet with béarnaise sauce or baked pork filet in sherry on their a la carte menu are sure to satisfy. Breakfast buffet 90EEK.

Regatt
Meriväljatee 1, Pirita, tel. 627 75 06, fax 630 78 98. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
Aiming to attract the moneyed, staid set to the Pirita district north of the centre, Regatt has transformed the old Pirita bus station into the setting for an old-fashioned evening of dining and dancing.

Carina
Pirita 26e, tel. 641 91 75, fax 641 91 76.Open 12:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
A venerable player on Tallinn's restaurant scene, Carina has managed to keep pace only in terms of prices.

Stenhus
Pühavaimu 13/15, tel. 699 77 80. Open 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:30. Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 14:30,18:00 - 22:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED OUTSIDE SEATING
The Consul Hotels group's Tallinn location offers elegant dining with fireplace, varied menu, and of course that distinctive English style for which their hotel has already won acclaim. Watch for a special menu served in the garden this summer.

Ebell
Narva 6, tel. 660 16 91/661 61 87. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Closed Sun. Café open 08:00 - 10:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Closed Sun.
E-Köök's latest venture gives a whole new meaning to 'a liquid lunch'. Here you can eat three full courses - from, ahem, soup to nuts - of nothing but soup. Each filling, steaming concoction is served with its own carefully chosen accoutrement. Some concessions are made to those who insist on solid food

Galaxy
Kloostrimetsa 58a (in the TV tower), tel. 23 82 50, fax 23 80 07. Open 13:00 - 02:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
Recent renovations breathed new life into this old standard. To enjoy the view from 170m up, rather than dining, tickets cost 35EEK before 18:00, 50EEK after.

The Lost Continent
Narva 19, tel. 631 23 02, fax 42 25 13. Open 10:00 - 01:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
Nearly as vast as the continent itself, this Australian-themed pub is difficult to pin down. Large meat dishes - not kangaroo or koala - and fresh-made soups attract a large lunch crowd. There's a small stage, billiards and dartboard, but no Fosters and no shrimp on the barbie. Activities for the wee ones every Sunday 12:00 - 14:00.

Tänav
Tatari 6, tel. 660 49 15, fax 660 49 34, taenav@anet.ee Open 11:00 - 24:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED LIVE MUSIC
An inside-out world on a cobblestone Italian sidewalk with shingled roofs and windows overlooking outdo-or tables. The starry back room is rented out for parties.
Nobody, but nobody opens a restaurant in Tallinn during the summer. If you're not up and running and ready to meet the hoards of seasonal Huns overrunning the city by the time the first cruise boat arrives, you might just find yourself knocked out of competition. Fortunately, however, two brave restaurateurs didn't heed this sage advice and opened the doors to Tallinn's first and second Thai restaurants almost simultaneously. Call it an embarrassment of riches. We haven't eaten so well in ages. To put your mind at ease: it's not hard to find a full meal for US$5 - 6; service is nearly always English-speaking; foreign-language menus are becoming the rule, not the exception; VAT (18%) is always included; service is rarely added to the bill and it's up to you to decide whether to leave a tip. If you got great service, do the rest of us a favour and encourage it with a generous tip.
 

Pappa Pizza
Dunkri 6, tel. 646 62 38. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Pärnu 326, tel. 51 09 64. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Kadaka 56a, tel. 667 34 85. Open 10:00 - 23:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Just the right pizzeria feel.

Peetri Pizza
Kopli 2c, tel. 44 94 22/641 43 98. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Mere 6, tel. 661 61 81. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Liivalaia 40, tel. 661 41 22. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Pärnu 22, tel. 641 82 03. Open 12:00 - 02:00. Delivery tel. 656 75 67, (8-250) 11 185.
Fast food pizza, eat in or take away. Delivery 40 - 50EEK.

Pizza Americana
Müürivahe 2, tel. 644 88 37. Open 11:30 - 22:30, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. Pikk 1-3, tel. 644 07 10, fax 631 33 43. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
Pan pizzas. Delivery tel. 644 88 37. 40EEK.

Sbarro's
Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45, tel. 667 55 60, fax 667 55 01. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
For anyone who has ever been to an American mall, Sbarro's needs no introduction. For the rest of the world: big, fresh pizza.

Café Carlos
Pronksi 3, tel. 640 39 44, fax 640 39 43. Orders accepted 09:00 - 13:30, delivery 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 -22:00.
Free delivery, but you must order four or more dishes.

Kaukaasia
Lembitu 14, tel. 660 50 21. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Shish kebab for under 100EEK. Add 10% for delivery.

Ratsu Baar
Mere 6a, tel. 660 11 64. Open 12:00 - 15:00.
Speedy and filling. Delivery charge 10%.

Väravavaht
Viru 23, tel. 644 90 85. Open 24hrs.
Alcohol. Delivery within Tallinn 50EEK, min. 200EEK.

Westmanni Äri
Pärnu 19, tel. 660 42 57/660 51 82, fax 660 50 74. Open 24hrs.
Groceries. Delivery within Tallinn 60EEK.