Riga is a magnificent surprise to a stranger. A big city in feeling and sophistication, she has come to life again after half a century of Soviet domination. Latvians think of their cities as feminine and Riga is an unquestioned lady! The moment you walk her streets you understand why in the 1930s she was known as "The Little Paris of the North"
Superb architecture, from the medieval to Art Nouveau, an Old City that rivals Prague, operas and concerts, and active artistic life, smart shops and intimate restaurants, all testify to her being once again a major European capital.
Perhaps the best indicator of Riga's cultural strength is that far from old buildings being torn down to make way for highrises, they are being lovingly restored. Almost symbolically, one of the first to be brought back to its former glory was the Opera House. Funds may be in short supply, but energy and imagination are not, and Latvians are rightly proud of a lady who will be celebrating her 800th birthday in the year 2001.
For countless centuries the unhurried waters of the Daugava river provided a Baltic access to trade with what is now Russia. Riga was founded in 1201 by German invaders, whose Knights of the Sword built fortresses by the river and founded the Livonian Order. Their sway yielded to that of the Bishops, who maintained the city as a semi-independent state and Hanseatic town. To this day Riga has magnificent churches and if you take the lift inside the restored spire of St. Peter's Church, you will step out on to a viewing platform with spectacular views of a township that runs from medieval houses and fortress towers to late 19 century Art Nouveau facades. Running out from the Old Town, past the Freedom Monument, is the Brivibas (Freedom) Boulevard. In this century alone the Boulevard has been named after Alexander of Russia, Hitler and Lenin! Now it is Brivibas again and you can feel freedom in the air of Riga.
Miraculously the old city (Vecriga) has been neither badly damaged by war nor disfigured by high rise development. Now pedestrianised, it is a delight to explore. Contained between the Daugava river and the park along the Pilsetas Canal, once the line of the city walls, it is a microcosm of architectural development from the 1200s to the 1900s. Doma Laukums is the main square and on summer evenings it is alive with people drinking beer, feasting on barbecued food and enjoying the warm sun.
The Dome Cathedral itself houses one of Europe's finest organs and is a frequent venue for concerts. Look out too for the powder tower (Pulvertornis) of 1330, the old city walls, the Art Nouveau houses on Alberta iela, and Kalkuiela, which is the Fifth Avenue of Riga. There is an open air art gallery on the garden square and street musicians play.
Numerous small bars and restaurants satisfy just about every taste. By contrast the new the new city stretches out in every direction, although contained by a green belt of forests. Among these woods are the Ethnographic Museum and the vast auditorium of the Mezaparks open air stage, both worth visiting, especially during festivals.
Recent History
For centuries the port of Riga has been a strategic port on the Baltic Sea. It was one of the principle trading ports of Czarist Russia, the Soviet empire and even today 90% of the incoming goods is going to and from Russia.
In the early 1990's, it was hoped that Latvia would become a new "Hong Kong", a stable and efficient transit point for shifting goods to the massive Russian market. So far this vision has not come to fruition for a variety of reasons, including substandard rail and road networks, continuing trade barriers with Russia, and choked border points.
While there are other ports in Latvia that could become major arteries in the future, especially Ventspils with its oil cargo facilities, there is little doubt that Riga remains the predominant terminal in the country. A wide range of shipping, storage and transportation facilities are available, including a new passenger terminal, Ro-Ro berthing, and handling facilities for grain, coal and other commodities.
Efficiency in these varied areas is improving, but a lot remains to be done to reach western standards. Efficiency in the terminal is gradually improving as Western standards are being implemented. Until aproximately two years ago turnaround time was slow. To get a container out of the terminal in Riga it once took a whole day, whereas in Hong Kong or Rotterdam it only took an hour and a half. The good news is that now, in most cases, the Riga terminal releases containers within two hours. Users of the port believe that Riga has a considerable advantage over it's Baltic competitors. The cost of shifting containers is cheaper in Riga than anywhere else in the Baltics, let alone.Yacht Clubs
There are many yacht clubs in Riga, but some of them are situated far from the city. We recommend the club in Riga city proper, at the innermost part of the river. At the east side of the river you find "Andrej Osta" (Andrej port), a small harbour behind the ferry terminal. (If you miss it you soon find yourself at the large bridge crossing river Daugava inside the town).
Facilities Company Contact Address Information Lodgings Hotels Eurolink
Aspazijas bulv. 22, 3rd floor of Hotel Riga, tel. (+371) 722 05 31, fax (+371) 721 63 00, Although the four star hotel is located on the third floor of Hotel Riga, it has a style and flavour of its own. Rooms are spacious and tastefully decorated with cable-TV and minibar. Ask for a room with a view of the opera house and its surrounding gardens. The hotel has two conference rooms and one even boasts an adjoining sauna and shower. The quaint restaurant in the lobby offers great Scandinavian fare and a more than fair view of St. Peter's Church.
Hotel de Rome
Kalku 28, tel. (+371) 708 76 00, fax (+371) 708 76 06, One of Riga's premier hotels, the Hotel De Rome has a spacious and comfortable lobby where one can relax and enjoy a coffee or cocktail while discussing business or simply waiting for a friend. The hallways of each floor are decorated in a different style often featuring antique furniture and paintings from local artists. All rooms, both smoking and non-smoking, are elegant and include everything one expects from a top hotel and a few extras, such as satellite TV. Konventa Seta
Kaleju 9/11, tel. 708 75 01, fax 708 75 15. Located in the centre of Old Riga, the 'convent yard' transports one to the city's ancient days of splendour. The colourful buildings of the former Convent of the Holy Spirit date back to the 13th century. Singles are small, but quaint and some even include original oak beams as an added touch of antiquity. Luxury suites are spacious and supply excellent views of the surrounding historic buildings. No stay at this hotel would be complete without a visit to the basement museum which displays its evolution throughout the ages.
Man-Tess
Teatra 6, tel. (+371) 721 60 56/721 02 25, fax (+371) 782 12 49.
Housed in a restored 18th century building in the center of Old Riga, the hotel is a quiet place to escape for travellers who love luxury. Each room is decorated in a different style, so guests can choose from authentic antique to modern d‚cor. The lobby displays a little bit of everything in grand fashion. Don't step into the goldfish pond on the way to the elevator. If you have the money and a significant other make this your cozy weekend hideaway!
Metropole
Aspazijas bulv. 36/38, tel. (+371) 722 54 11, fax (+371) 721 61 40, email
International business class hotel located at the south-west edge of Old Riga in an historic, turn of the century building. The lobby and its surrounding bar and restaurant are completely Western in style and a great place to meet with a friend or a client. Single rooms are small, but include the standard writing desk, cable TV and mini-bar. Doubles are more spacious and even offer a trouser press. What bathrooms lack in size they more than make up for in modernity. It appears to be a favourite among German travellers.
Nams 99
Stabu 99, tel. (+371) 731 07 62, fax (+371) 731 32 04, A bit out of the centre, this stylish new hotel housed in a beautiful Jugendstil building offers extremely spacious, elegantly decorated apartments for familes and businessmen planning to stay for more than a few days. All apartments include all possible amenities in grand style. Four singles will soon be available on the top floor.
Radisson-SAS Daugava
Kugu 24, tel. (+371) 706 11 11, fax (+371) 706 11 00, Completely Western in all respects, the Radisson outshines its competition in quality and service. No matter which room you choose, a single or a suite, you are guaranteed plush accommodations with TV, mini-bar and two phone lines for computer access. Guests can step out onto their private balcony and gaze across the river at the beautiful panoramic view of Old Riga.
Park Hotel Ridzene
Reimersa 1, tel. 732 44 33, fax 728 21 00, email Once a hotel for the Soviet elite, the Ridzene has been completely renovated and is now the most modern hotel in Riga. All rooms include climate control, satellite TV, a trouser press, minibar, hairdryer, safe, and Internet connection. They also offer an upmarket restaurant and underground parking, free of charge for guests.
Vecriga
Gleznotaju 12/14, tel. 721 65 24, fax 721 45 61, Located in a remodelled 18th century building, the Old Riga offers spacious doubles with satellite TV, refrigerator and modern bathroom. Modern living in an antique atmosphere. Summer courtyard beer garden.
Brigita
Saulkalnes 11, tel. 762 30 00, fax 762 31 90. Clean, spacious and modern, this hotel has a refrigerator, satellite TV and phone in every room. A sauna, bar and a café are also available. A little out of the centre, take trolleybus N°19 from the station.
Karavella
Katrinas dambis 27, tel. (+371) 732 31 30/732 31 30, fax (+371) 783 01 87. Hotel with a nautical theme not far from the Riga harbor. Rooms on the 12th floor are completely modern and include spacious interiors, mini-bar and satellite TV. All other floors provide clean, but less modern rooms for a cheaper price. Pay the extra few bucks for the added comfort. Take tram N°5 or 9 to the Petersalas stop.
Kaspars
Mukupurva 19, tel. (+371-2) 42 42 69, fax (+371-2) 42 47 55.
A long way out of the center, this secluded hotel provides clean, comfortable rooms with TV. Difficult to get to by public transportation. Sauna, fireplace and small pool available. Laine
Skolas 11, tel. 728 88 16/728 98 23, fax 728 76 58, Located in a quiet courtyard on the second floor, the Laine provides friendly service and lives up to its claim to make guests 'feel at home'. Singles are simple, but spacious and include TV, refrigerator and bath. Luxury rooms display modern décor and unique tile work in the bathrooms. Cheaper singles and doubles are also available with shared bathrooms and showers.
Latvija
Elizabetes 55, tel. (+371) 722 22 11/721 17 55, toll-free tel. 800 90 03, fax (+371) 728 35 95/782 02 40, Hard to miss, the Latvia is one of Riga's largest hotels. Doubles are small, but tastefully decorated and provide a spectacular view of Old Riga. The hotel also offers a 4-star VIP section and a large conference hall complete with a business center for faxing, copying, etc. Guests can choose from a number of bars and restaurants and a newly renovated sauna/jacuzzi.
Mara (Best Western)
Kalnciema 186, tel. (+371) 790 13 16, fax (+371) 790 13 15, email Not too far from the airport, this cosy hotel was built and is still run by Canadian-Latvians. All rooms are spacious and include satellite TV and everything else one would expect from a Best Western establishment. Excellent international restaurant and shuttle bus service to the airport.
Nellija
Pils 13/15, tel. (+371) 722 64 06. Right in the centre of Old Riga and only three rooms, so make sure to book in advance.
Oma
Ernestines 33, tel. (+371) 761 33 88, fax (+371) 761 32 33, email
Nestled amid residential houses in a quiet neighbourhood of Riga, this modern hotel provides a cosy atmosphere at a reasonable price. Take tram N°2 to the Nometsu stop and walk a few blocks to Oma which means 'good mood' in Latvian.
Radi un Draugi
Marstalu 1/3, tel. (+371) 722 03 72, fax (+371) 724 22 39.
Owned by British Latvians, this classy hotel offers more than a great Old Riga location. All rooms are spacious, comfortable and tastefully decorated and include TV, refrigerator, coffee/tea set and modern bathroom. Book well in advance.
Riga
Aspazijas bulv. 22, tel. (+371) 721 62 85/721 61 09, fax (+371) 722 98 28, email
This extremely large hotel offers a wide variety of rooms with amazing views of the opera house and its surrounding gardens. Singles are small, but comfortable and modern with hard wood floors and private bathrooms. Junior suites and suites are tastefully decorated and quite spacious. All rooms include satellite TV, mini-bar, refrigerator and modern bathroom.
Tia
Valdemara 63, tel. (+371) 733 39 18, fax (+371) 783 03 90, email
Clean and comfortable rooms at a fair price. Singles and doubles are simply furnished, but a bed is all one requires when you have satellite TV. The hotel has a bar and café, as well as small conference rooms.
Turists
Slokas 1, tel. (+371) 761 90 90, fax (+371) 786 00 08, Wide variety of rooms ranging from small, clean singles to recently renovated rooms with TV and modern bathrooms. Guests can request either a quiet room with a view of the park or a room overlooking the popular Underground club where many a Rigan dances until the wee hours of the morning. Sauna and massages are available upon request.
Valdemars
Valdemara 23, tel. 728 82 18, fax 733 30 01.
Located in a beautiful Jugendstil building, this former home to members of the Latvian parliament is a great place to stay for people who love to soak up late 19th century atmosphere for a reasonable price. Singles and doubles are surprisingly spacious and include TV and refrigerator.
Viktorija
Caka 55, tel. (+371) 701 41 11, fax (+371) 701 41 40/731 06 29.
The fairly centrally located hotel has clean, comfortable, modern, renovated rooms. The unrenovated 'category III' rooms are not too bad if you want to save some money.
Elias
Hamburgas 14, tel. (+371-2) 51 81 17.
Charming 1930s home located in a quiet neighbourhood provides cosy rooms with TV and private bathrooms. Breakfast included for travellers who choose to stay more than a few days. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Hamburgas stop. Latgale
Aviacijas 4, tel. (+371) 718 88 82.
The hotel has now opened the first floor! All rooms have TV, sauna available. Take trolleybus N&#deg;15 from the University of Latvia stop to the Interpegro stop.
Linga (Relaxation centre)
Licu 3, tel. (+371) 734 84 03.
TV, shower and/or bath in all rooms. Sauna. Take the N°11 bus near the circus to get there.
Mezaparks
Sakses 19, tel. 755 79 88, fax 755 79 64.
With excellent views of Lake Íisezers, this hotel offers simple, clean rooms without many amenities. Water sports and tennis are available during summer months. Take trolleybus N°2 to the last stop.
Oskars
Krustabaznicas 9a, tel. (+371) 755 69 55.
Former Soviet army hotel. Foreigners are asked to 'warn before coming'. Pool, sauna, gym and solarium available. The luxury rooms are spacious, if a bit overpriced, the rest are bare but clean. Take tram No 6 to the Krustbaznicas stop.
Plavnieki
Salnas 26, tel. (+371) 713 70 40.
This hotel offers small apartments with TV, shower and toilet. Located in a suburb of Riga, far from the centre. Take bus N°52 from the central market until the Baltinavas stop.
Saulite
Merkela 12, tel. (+371) 722 45 46, fax (+371) 722 36 29. The receptionist wouldn't let us in, but informed us that nothing has changed in the hotel in the past three years. Unfortunately, we have heard via the grape-vine that rooms aren't very clean or warm for that matter.
Riga Tourist Information Bureau
Skarnu 22, tel. (+371) 722 17 31/955 84 38, fax (+371) 722 76 80, email Four-room guest house located in an old town house in the heart of Old Riga just across St. Peter's Church. Also organises tours.
Arena
Palasta 5, tel. (+371) 722 85 83.
Very basic rooms, with communal toilets and showers. The cheapest place right in the heart of Old Riga. Owned by the Circus, it is booked out by jugglers and lion tamers from October to April!
Aurora
Marijas 5, tel. (+371) 722 44 79.
Downsized to only two floors, this hotel offers beds and a sink in each of its rooms. Although the receptionist complained that the hotel is no longer as grand as it used to be,it seems to be a safe and clean place to crash. Showers and toilets are communal. Conveniently located next to Riga's central train station.
Balta Kaza (White goat)
Eveles 2, tel. (+371) 737 81 35.
A bit out of the center, this brick and cement box is a great place for backpackers who don't mind riding the tram for a while. All rooms are clean and somewhat spacious with shared toilets and showers. Take tram N°11 from Barona to the Meness/Eveles stop.
Baltija
Raina bulv. 33, tel. (+371) 722 74 61.
Soviet in almost every respect, this old dinosaur is still a favourite of backpackers and budget businessmen. All rooms, with or without private bathrooms, are spacious. Shower facilities are adequate.
Latavio
Airport, tel. (+371) 720 71 49/720 73 75.
Battered old furniture, peeling paint, hospital smell and the managers say that there's not much noise from the airport right next door.
Sports
Gogola 5, tel. (+371) 722 67 80.
Within spitting distance of both Riga's central train station and market, this hole in the wall provides clean beds in filthy rooms for a cheap price. Shared toilets were horrible and showers could not be found. Maybe you'll have better luck!
Hostels Placis
Laimdotas 2a, tel. (+371) 755 18 24.
All rooms have a fridge and singles have TV. The only hostel accepting the international hostelling card. For more information, contact:
Hostel Association
Laimdotas 2a, tel. (+371) 755 12 71.Take trolleybus N°4 or buses N°1, 14 or 32 to Teika stop.
Riga Technical University Hostel
Azenes 22a, tel. (+371-2) 20 33 95/61 38 43.
Next door to student dormitories. Common kitchen and bathroom, reasonably clean. Take trolleybus N°7 or 21 across the bridge one stop to Kipsala.
Studentu Kopmitne
Basteja bulv. 10, tel. (+371) 721 62 21. Surprisingly respectable and great value. It is tough to find a room in summer when backpackers flock in. The reception is inside to the left.
Turiba
Graudu 68, tel. (+371) 790 14 71 Take trolleybus N°8 from Strelnieku laukums until the Graudu stop. Sauna, café and fitness centre.
Bed & Breakfast Patricia
Elizabetes 22-6, tel. (+371) 728 48 68/724 28 54/925 67 31, tel./fax (+371) 728 66 50 Walking distance from the station. Rooms are offered in various locations throughout the center of Riga.
Homestay
Tel. (+371-2) 45 85 67. Two blocks from Hotel Latvia. Large rooms for up to six people, preferably English speaking guests. Guide/escort service available.
Welcome Inn
Elizabetes 31a - 9, tel. 733 66 07/959 17 16, fax 733 12 69.
Located in the beautiful Jugendstil district of Riga, this small bed and breakfast offers three rooms, a sauna and, of course, breakfast.
Camping Bikernieku
Eizensteina 2, gate 4 or 8, tel. (+371-2) 59 93 89, fax (+371-2) 59 84 85.
Camper, bus or caravan costs US$10, setting up a tent US$6. Electricity, water, shower and toilet included.
Dzirnezers
14 km north on the road to Tallinn, set on the banks of Lake Dzirnezers, tel. (+371-2) 95 14 15.
Rudimentary washing facilities with cold water and no showers. Boat and bicycle rental.
Open from May to October. 7Ls for a four-bunk sunheated summer house, 9Ls for a two-bunk house, 4Ls for campers and caravans.
Jaunkemeri
Jurmala, Jaunkemeri, Kolkas 6, tel. (+371) 73 65 75.
128 rooms with 260 beds (doubles, triples and bungalows for 2Ls/person). Siguldas pludmale
Peldu 1, tel. (+371-2) 97 37 24.
1.50Ls/person for tents, 4-6Ls/person for caravans.
Eating American Café Radisson-SAS, Kuìu 24, tel. 706 11 11 Once a great place to eat American cuisine, this café has kept the name, but switched its menu to suit a more international clientele. Delicious food, breakfast buffet and a businessmen's lunch or dinner Columbine Aspazijas bulv. 36/38 (Metropole), tel. 721 61 61 One of the few upmarket restaurants to offer bargain daily specials, Columbine also boasts international cuisine as diverse as Indian tandoori and Swedish pytt i panna (fried eggs and hash) for breakfast. We suggest sampling the abundant seafood bar. Grill Room Radisson-SAS, Kugu 24, tel. 706 11 11, fax 706 11 00 Walk through the American Café at the Radisson and discover one of Riga's most exclusive restaurants.. You can choose from a wide selection of delicious cuisine, but their true speciality is seafood. Note that they are not open for lunch. Jaunais Restorans (Zagara restorans) Dzirnavu 84 (Berga Bazars), tel. (+371) 721 72 25 The opening of the new silver and white restaurant marks Mr. Zagars' return to elegant simplicity. If you are wealthy enough to eat here, try the crocodile medal-lions and risotto with truffle oil. Lolo Pub Elizabetes 51, tel. (+371) 728 18 49 Classy restaurant offering great food in a modern atmosphere. The chef, schooled in Paris, puts on a great show. Try the wild boar or the elk for a taste sensation. Otto Schwarz Hotel de Rome, Kalku 28, tel. (+371) 708 76 23, fax (+371) 708 766 06 This elegant restaurant on the top floor of the Hotel de Rome is a good choice if you really want to splurge and pamper your palate. Sample oysters on the half shell and savoury chateubriand or try one of their numerous vegetarian dishes. Business lunch and great views of the Freedom Monument and Riga in general! Piramida Reimersa 1 (Park Hotel Ridzene), tel. 732 44 33 Elegant restaurant housed in a glass pyramid which the local press have referred to as the 'little Louvre'. The impressive a la carte menu lists such delicious mains as veal medallions wrapped in bacon and tenderloin of venison. Breakfast and lunch buffet. Reformatu Club & Restaurant Marstalu 10 (entrance from Alksnaja), tel. (+371) 721 00 27 The classiest jazz club in town in a completely converted church hall offers excellent dinner. International kitchen, friendly service in an amiable atmosphere. An extra 2Ls is added on the bill for the live music. Samsons Marstalu 2, tel. (+371) 722 95 72 Elegant cellar restaurant with an amazingly original interior of brick and hanging blown glass. The international cuisine is pricey, but Samsons' strength is in its quality and service. Try the salmon in champagne sauce or the chicken curry. Symposium (Zagara restorans) Dzirnavu 84/I (Berga Bazars), tel. (+371) 724 25 45, fax (+371) 724 25 46 Relax in and elegant, yet warm setting and enjoy Mediterranean-style cuisine. Choose from a wide selection of Greek and Italian antipasto for starters and then move on to delicious pasta, meat and fish dishes.
Vincents Elizabetes 19, tel. 733 26 34/733 28 30 Renowned chef Martins Ritins has added sushi to his already outstanding menu of gourmet delicasies. Each Japanese meal is accompanied by wasabe, soy sauce and fresh ginger. Businessmen's lunch. See for yourself why Vincents was chosen to cater for the President of Latvia. Arve Aldaru 12/14, tel. (+371) 722 06 49 This small vaulted cellar's low ceilings by the Swedish Gate may not be ideal for basketball players, but it's certainly a good choice for diners who enjoy a good meal in a charming, purple atmosphere. Tasty Latvian specialities. Charlestons Blaumana 38/40, tel. 777 05 73 The latest dining sensation by Elmars Tannis, this trendy restaurant and cappuccino bar would be exceptional in New York, San Francisco, Riga or Charleston for that matter. Delicious international fare in a warm, yet elegant setting. Start with the salmon bisque. Breakfast until 12:00 in the coffee bar. Kolonna Skunu 16, tel. (+371) 722 38 07 Classy restaurant serving up good European cuisine and great views of Dome Square. Bring a date here for a romantic candle-lit dinner and take a seat by a window. Livonija Meistaru 21, tel. 722 80 93 Tucked away in a quaint, vaulted cellar in Old Riga, its inspiring medieval décor will send you back centuries into the past. Great Baltic dishes and a sublime ancient atmosphere. Try the rabbit ragout or, if you're lucky, freshly caught game. Melnie muki (Black Monks) Jana seta 1, tel. 721 50 06 What was once a medieval cloister is now one of the most popular restaurants in Riga. The ancient brick walls and arches have been successfully blended with modern elements of style and the menu, which includes seafood and t-bone steaks, is surprisingly reasonable. Mezoniga Plume (The Wild Plum) Gertrudes 79, tel. (+371) 724 41 60 One of the few restaurants in the city with a long Western style bar, the Wild Plum offers an extensive and creative menu. Reserve a table under the plum tree. Oaze Alunana 2a, tel. (+371) 732 19 20/732 19 38 Navigate your way to the blue and gold halls of the oasis for excellent Baltic and Russian cuisine. The wide selection of cocktails and great service are not a mirage. A favourite of Russian businessmen. Ordenis Jana Seta 5, tel. (+371) 722 84 23 Cosy bar/restaurant tucked away in the Jana seta in Old Riga with a number of tasty vegetarian and fish dishes as well as the widest selection of quality Scotch and whisky in town. Dine by the light of crazy croissants. Palete Gleznotaju 12/14, tel. (+371) 721 60 37 Perfect for an evening of romance and fine dining, the Palette on Painters Street offers one of the most extensive international menus in town. Spoil your own palate with the swordfish or the shark steak. Parlaments Smilsu 1/3, tel. 941 62 01 This relaxing restaurant on Dome Square has huge windows which allow you to observe beautiful sights (and people) while enjoying spicy chilli tortillas or delicious pasta dishes. The Buffalo wings served with Chinese noodles have no doubt raised a few eyebrows. Piano Bars (Vernisaza) Terbatas 2, tel. (+371) 728 82 30 Raimonds Pauls' Piano Bar has an elegant setting with beautiful views of the Vermanes garden. Live music every night and Sundays from 13:00 - 16:00. Try the duck soup followed by the stuffed chicken breast. Raibais Balodis (Colourful Dove) Koventa Seta, Kaleju 9/11, tel. (+371) 708 75 80 Simply decorated in pleasant shades of blue and white, the dove displays its true colours with delicious European dishes and excellent service. Sirdsmila Aldaru 11 (entrance from Troksnu), tel. (+371) 921 81 19 Once one of Riga's smallest restaurants, the Sweetheart has now expanded to include a beautiful enclosed glass atrium which houses a small waterfall and hanging plants. Try the stuffed trout. Vagners (Richard Wagner) Skunu 4, tel. (+371) 722 94 95 This quiet restaurant named after Wagner, a one time resident of Riga, is stylistically reminiscent of a Vienese cafe, but don't be deceived. Its impressive menu lists much more than coffee and cake. Sample delicious pastas, seafood, vegetarian dishes and breakfast food. Alus Arsenals Pils laukums 4 (Entrance from Arsenala), tel. (+371) 732 38 96 This Latvian beer cellar below the Riga In Your Pocket office serves hearty local fare for a good price. On weekend nights it's hard to find a free oak stump to sit on. Alus Seta Tirgonu 6 (Entrance also from M. Monetu 3), tel. (+371) 722 24 31 Yet another rustically decorated restaurant from the Lido people. Grab a tray and watch your shashlik cook while you wait in the queue. Order the traditional Latvian gray peas with bacon and onions and quench your thirst with a cold Uzavas draught. Dzirnavas (The Mill) Dzirnavu 76, tel. (+371) 728 62 04 This rustic Lido eatery dishes out tasty food from giant iron kettles. Sadly, the wonderful variety of the buffet makes the chow line a bit confusing. A Latvian saying over the exit proclaims that he who belches while eating will eat in the same place next year! Kalanda Jana 8/10, tel. (+371) 722 97 75 Named after the 14th-century fraternal society who once gathered here, this elegant courtyard restaurant offers a wide variety of delicious dishes named after historical figures and sights of Riga. The menu includes such delicacies as bulls' balls. Live music after 19:30. Kekis (The Cookhouse) Kengaraga 3, tel. (+371) 713 49 30 The setting of Latvian wooden farm buildings amidst ugly suburban high rises is bizarre, but the atmosphere inside is lively and friendly. Take tram N°7 or 9 from Aspazijas to the Kengaraga stop. Lielais Kamielis Vecpilsetas 3, tel. (+371) 721 26 14 Elegant restaurant in the cellar of what used to be a 17th century warehouse for Eastern spices (hence the camel symbol). Discover authentic Latvian dishes, such as grudenis (stewed pig's head with barley, beans and peas), which are rare today even in the countryside. Rozamunde Maza Smilsu 8, tel. (+371) 722 77 98 Soak up the pre-war atmosphere of this restored fraternity restaurant and experience 1920s Riga. Sample Latvian nouvelle cuisine and original dishes from Duke Jacob's time (17th century). Live music every night. Sena Riga Aspazijas bulv. 22, tel. (+371) 721 68 69 Fun basement restaurant arranged into four cottages representing the four regions of Latvia: Kurzeme, Vidzeme, Zemgale and Latgale. The waitstaff wear traditional costumes to serve hearty portions of Latvian food. Patrons dance to the music played from a stage that looks like a pirate ship. Staburags Caka 55, tel. (+371-2) 29 97 87 In this maze of old fashioned, oak furnished rooms you will find traditional Latvian fare served in ceramic pots. The atmosphere will transport you to Latvia's distant past for a surprisingly reasonable price. A word to the wise: local Rigans often share their food here, because portions are so ridiculously large that Henry VIII would have a hard time cleaning off his plate. Vermanitis Elizabetes 65, tel. 728 62 89 Lido has opened yet another ethnic, Latvian eatery with a few noted improvements. Quality Argentinian steaks, cooked to order, have been added to the immense buffet and the rustic interior is bright and provides spectacular views of Vermanes Garden. Aragats Miera 15, tel. (+371) 737 34 45 Travel to Yerevan without leaving Riga! Allow David and Lubova to treat you to mouth-watering hashlama (mutton & vegetable soup) and delicious shashliks. Your hosts will even chop up your food for you. Don't leave without trying one of their special wines or coffees. Arba Gertrudes 33/35, tel. 737 40 81 A must see, this casual restaurant is entirely enclosed within a glass atrium on the top of a building. The tasty Armenian food is cheap and the interior consists of hanging vines, rock ledges and a wooden farmer's cart which doubles as a salad bar. Kurmis (the Mole) Merkela 9, tel. (+371) 722 45 14 Dimly-lit cellar restaurant decorated with realistic looking grape vines and sketches of moles fishing and playing ball on the walls. Tasty dishes and shashliks galore, even salmon on a stick, all served with fresh lavash(thin pita bread). The cheesy pop music is a bit annoying. Zangezurs Rupniecibas 5, tel. 732 60 46 The first thing one notices about this cosy cellar restaurant is the gigantic bear skin on the wall. Enjoy delicious shashliks, hashlama (mutton soup), dolma (minced meat in grape leaves) and other Armenian favourites for a good price. Asia Marstalu 6/8, tel. (+371) 722 53 05 This expensive Chinese restaurant has a fountain in the main dining hall and specialises in banquets and business dinners. Their extensive menu lists such exotic dishes as frogs' legs in garlic sauce. Don Fa Avotu 33, tel. (+371-2) 27 61 01 The first step inside reveals a canopy of realistic looking vines and flowers hanging from the ceiling, as well as Chinese lanterns and even a parakeet. The food is OK, but a bit pricey. Don Fa is also the name of the house specialty, a perch dish. Rice costs extra! Šan - Dun Mukusalas 41, tel. 761 35 80 The location across the river may be discouraging, but the cuisine is worth the trip. Pass by the stone lions guarding the entrance and walk over the wooden foot bridge to sample sweet and sour fish, delicious garlic broccoli and other dishes exotic to Riga. You can rent the elegantly decorated rooms in the back. Sanhaja Grecinieku 26, tel. (+371) 722 84 62 Great for dinner or a business lunch, this restaurant serves excellent Chinese food which will please the palate without breaking the bank. Try the spicy calamari or the sweet and sour pork. Sit on the couch by the window and watch the House of Blackheads come to life across the street. Zelta Panda (Golden Panda) Kaleju 54, tel. (+371) 722 80 09 The dishes lack a little spice, but the cuisine is great for the price. Try the succulent Gunbao chicken and the fried caramel bananas for dessert. Verdins Maza Pils 11, tel. 722 13 39 It's worth coming here for the atmosphere alone. Dine in one of Old Riga's most beautiful and secluded courtyard restaurants and sample savoury bouillabaisse or veal escalopes in Dijon sauce. Soothing live solo guitar music accompanies your meal in the evening. Mimino (The Falcon) Barona 78, tel. (+371) 731 06 41 Cosy little cellar restaurant where you can watch your shashliks and kebabs cook over an open flame in a brick fire pit next to the bar. Order the sand-boiled coffee with dessert. Rioni Brivibas 226, tel. (+371-2) 56 83 82 Definitely the most elegant Caucasian restaurant in Riga, Rioni serves Georgian and Armenian favourites such as hashlama and dolma. If you call ahead they'll roast an entire suckling pig for 60Ls. Complimentary oranges after the meal are a nice touch. Jever Bistro Kalku 6, tel. (+371) 722 70 78 One of the first restaurants to pop up after the iron curtain fell, it serves delicious dishes from Hamburg and Bavaria. It would be a completely Teutonic experience if only the waiting staff could speak German! Grieku Restorans Skarnu 10/20, tel. (+371) 721 10 26 Gourmet Greek food in the heart of Old Riga. Start with, of course, the Greek platter and then move on to authentic moussaka or souvlaki. Dine inside or relax in the white-washed courtyard to experience the Mediterranean in Latvia. Waiters are courteous and attentive, but the prices are a bit steep. Very popular in the evening, so be sure to reserve a table! Owned by Andrejs Zagars, the director of the National Opera and father of Osiris and Symposium. Bollywood Chutney Torna 4/3B - 2 (Jekaba Kazarmas), tel. 732 10 10 Just follow the scent of exotic spices which pour out onto Torna iela to find Riga's only Indian restaurant. Listen to Indian music while feasting on delicious tandoo-ri, murgh and other classic dishes. The secret to their success is that almost everything, from the spices they use to the furniture you sit on, is imported from India. Dublin Vagnera 16, tel. (+371) 722 35 87 Riga's 'other' Irish pub may not have been the first, but it is certainly not the least of its genre. Football paraphernalia compliments the décor which is everything one would expect from a purveyor of Guinness and Harp. Their extensive menu is excellent and has something for everyone. Murphy's Pub Teatra 12, tel. (+371) 721 69 61 Murphy's Stout on tap but otherwise far removed from the Emerald Isle. Get lucky on the slot machines. Paddy Whelan's Grecinieku 4, tel. 721 02 49 Riga's first Irish bar offers good pub grub, including build-your-own sandwiches, and breakfast served until 20:00. Cheaper than upstairs, it is a magnet for scruffy students and anyone out for fun. Often show sporting events on a big screen TV. Roisin Dubh (The Black Rose) Grecinieku 4, tel. (+371) 721 02 49 Located directly above Paddy's, this bar is the undisputed favourite hangout for Riga's foreign community. Join Riga's English-speaking expats for a Guinness and a great time. The kitchen serves tasty Irish and Italian dishes. Tim Mc Shane's Tirgonu 10, tel. (+371) 722 54 81 This Irish pub provides a warm setting where one can order a Guinness without stepping over the carcasses of fallen students. Good, classic Irish meals and live bands occasionally play in the cellar. Unfortunately, the service is slow and it gets smokey in the evening. 1739 Skarnu 6, tel. 721 13 98 Enter this historic 18th century house and discover one Riga's best kept secrets. In addition to delicious Italian dishes like mushroom filled ravioli, 1739 serves such international delights as Australian steaks and Hungarian paprika chicken. Giuditta Barona 2, tel. 707 09 37 This authentic Italian buffet and pizzeria is certainly a welcome addition to Riga's dining scene. The delicious, freshly made pizzas are the best deal at 1.50 - 3Ls. The fruit and salad bars are also a good option, but if you're really in the mood to splurge, try their pasta or perhaps the pork escalopes in wine sauce. Lolo Pizzeria Elizabetes 51, tel. (+371) 728 13 39 Over thirty thin crust pizzas and dozens of tasty Italian pasta, meat and seafood dishes. The scents wafting from the oven are inviting, but the prices are a little bit exaggerated. The horrible techno music does not aid digestion. Mamma Mia Caka 26, tel. (+371) 731 22 10 What do you get when you mix two Italian-Swedes and a restaurant? Excellent food! Try their delicious thin-crust pizzas, calzones and pasta. If you're looking for authentic, freshly made Italian cuisine for a great price, this is the place to go. The prices will pleasantly surprise you. Marco Polo Maza Smilsu 17 Relax in warm peach coloured surroundings and choose from a variety of light, healthy dishes including Italian favourites. Cheap businessmen's lunch. Don't leave without tasting the Egyptian flower tea. Roma Pulkveza Brieza 6, tel. 948 03 48 For such a tiny restaurant, it has a fairly impressive menu. Take a gander at the beautiful pictures of Rome, order pizzas, pastas and mains and read Italian press. The food doesn't make you scream 'buono' but it's not too bad. Zilais Putns Tirgonu 4, tel. (+371) 722 82 14 The Blue Bird provides an excellent view from its perch on and above Dome Square. Riga's oldest Italian restaurant won't disappoint with a wide variety of tasty pizzas and delicious dishes which would make Pavarotti proud. Café Do Arhitektu 1, tel. 722 00 20 A Japanese restaurant in Riga? Well… not really. This Japanese ‘style’ café, owned by the president of the Latvian Judo Association, serves some dishes with Japanese names, but most of the tasty mains are international or Baltic in nature. Unique black and orange interior. Good for a cocktail and a canapé. Shalom Brivibas 158, tel. (+371) 736 49 11 Latvian (not kosher) food with Jewish names but still a focal point of the local Jewish community. So have a beer and drink to life ! Mazeltov! La Kukaraca Audeju 16 (Centrs department store, top floor), tel. (+371) 701 80 18 This restaurant serves original dishes from south of the border, not the fast food which is so popular north of the Rio Grande. The food is excellent, but the service can be a bit slow at times. Sip a Corona and take a well-deserved siesta. Traktieris Antonijas 8, tel. 733 24 55 At last the city with a Russian-majority population has a decent Russian restaurant! The decorations, music, friendly service, low prices and great food, from mouth-watering borsch (red beetroot soup) to spicy mains, make it well worth a visit. They have also opened a take away place next door for those who need a quick fix of Russian food. Divi Lasi (Two Salmons) Tirgonu 8, tel. (+371) 721 34 70 Slide your tray along and grab fried calamari, dried anchovies, breaded fish flllets and seaweed salad. Food is sometimes cold, but it's OK for a moderately priced lunch and one of the few seafood places in what purports to be a port city. Zivju Restorans Vagnera 4, tel. (+371) 721 67 13 Expensive fish restaurant has mussels, oysters, lobster, sole, cod, salmon and even shark, as fresh as can be so far from the ocean. Arhitekts Amatu 4, tel. (+371) 722 61 51 Dark cellar restaurant whose classic Soviet-style interior hasn't changed much since the 1980s. The menu and service, however, have greatly improved. Cheap cocktails. Marrutku Maizites (Horseradish sandwiches) Kramu 4 The students are back and so is their favourite hangout. Apparently it's hard to keep a commie down! Join Marx, Lenin and many a drunken 'scholar' for a drink of vodka and contemplate the materialist evolution of mankind. Nellija Pils 13/15, tel. (+371) 722 64 06 Commrades! This place puts the 'oh' back in Soviet! Dark brown interior, lots of unused space, typical Soviet disco in the back and, of course, the banquet hall has a sauna. Nostalgija Kalku 22, tel. (+371) 722 23 38 A former Soviet fashion studio has been lovingly restored in all its optimistic, tasteless, socialist realist grandeur! From the marble walkways over the waterfall to the murals on the ceiling, it's completely over the top and very funny. Average meals and good coffee. Tower Smilsu 7, tel. (+371) 721 61 55, This lively, casual restaurant is decorated with portraits of screen stars and musicians like Bob Marley and Elvis. You can order anything ffrom pasta and Tex-Mex tacos to t-bone steaks and paella. Try their lunch specials which include salad bar or the classic American breakfast of eggs and sausages. 13 Kresli (13 Chairs) Jauniela 11 This tiny pub and steakhouse offers a warm, cosy atmosphere and is a great place for an intimate date. The steaks are tasty, but aren't exactly big and bloody like an American would expect them to be. Boulevard N°20 Aspazijas 20, tel. (+371) 721 60 33 This elegant cellar restaurant serves steaks of both the T-bone and sirloin variety. At lunch time the place is full of well-dressed professionals which the staff cater to in a variety of languages. Also known for their pizzas. Dnipro Alunana 6, tel. (+371) 722 28 58 Named after Ukraine's largest river, Dnipro reminds this editor of his grandma Kuzma's home cooking. Excellent vareniki (potato dumplings) and borsch (red beet soup) as well as other dishes. Slavic newspapers and even a painting of Taras Shevchenko! Pie Kuma Caka 65, tel. (+371-2) 29 88 11 Cellar restaurant with quaint Ukrainian decorations. Sample delicious vareniki (potato dumplings) and the spiciest borsch (red beet soup) in town! Hanoja Barona 93 (entrance from Tallinas), tel. (+371-2) 27 23 24 Decorated with oriental lamps and paintings of dragons on the walls, Hanoi serves up flavourful meals which are more Eastern European than South East Asian. The service is good, but the prices are a little steep. Saigona Dzirnavu 87, tel. (+371) 728 53 03 Seating in a bright room or in dark private booths in the back. The food is not spicy and not that great, hence not very Vietnamese. Order a ginseng tea and meditate on what you're doing there. Other