Eating in Riga

We have witnessed an immense improvement in the quality and service of the Riga dining scene, as well as a proliferation of ethnic restaurants. It is now possible to sip margaritas at siesta time and savour souvlaki for supper. Some restaurants claim to serve authentic ethnic dishes, but fall far short of the mark.
Tipping is not mandatory, but it is a nice gesture to leave 10% for good service. 
Note: service is generally English speaking. You can spot a good restaurant if it has the menu advertised outside.

Name	Contact	Adress	Information
American Café		Radisson-SAS, Kuìu 24, tel. 706 11 11	Once a great place to eat American cuisine, this café has kept the name, but switched its menu to suit a more international clientele. Delicious food, breakfast buffet and a businessmen's lunch or dinner
Columbine		Aspazijas bulv. 36/38 (Metropole), tel. 721 61 61	One of the few upmarket restaurants to offer bargain daily specials, Columbine also boasts international cuisine as diverse as Indian tandoori and Swedish pytt i panna (fried eggs and hash) for breakfast. We suggest sampling the abundant seafood bar.
Grill Room		Radisson-SAS, Kugu 24, tel. 706 11 11, fax 706 11 00	Walk through the American Café at the Radisson and discover one of Riga's most exclusive restaurants.. You can choose from a wide selection of delicious cuisine, but their true speciality is seafood. Note that they are not open for lunch.
Jaunais Restorans (Zagara restorans)		Dzirnavu 84 (Berga Bazars), tel. (+371) 721 72 25	The opening of the new silver and white restaurant marks Mr. Zagars' return to elegant simplicity. If you are wealthy enough to eat here, try the crocodile medal-lions and risotto with truffle oil.
Lolo Pub		Elizabetes 51, tel. (+371) 728 18 49	Classy restaurant offering great food in a modern atmosphere. The chef, schooled in Paris, puts on a great show. Try the wild boar or the elk for a taste sensation.
Otto Schwarz		Hotel de Rome, Kalku 28, tel. (+371) 708 76 23, fax (+371) 708 766 06	This elegant restaurant on the top floor of the Hotel de Rome is a good choice if you really want to splurge and pamper your palate. Sample oysters on the half shell and savoury chateubriand or try one of their numerous vegetarian dishes. Business lunch and great views of the Freedom Monument and Riga in general!
Piramida		Reimersa 1 (Park Hotel Ridzene), tel. 732 44 33	Elegant restaurant housed in a glass pyramid which the local press have referred to as the 'little Louvre'. The impressive a la carte menu lists such delicious mains as veal medallions wrapped in bacon and tenderloin of venison. Breakfast and lunch buffet.
Reformatu Club & Restaurant		Marstalu 10 (entrance from Alksnaja), tel. (+371) 721 00 27	The classiest jazz club in town in a completely converted church hall offers excellent dinner. International kitchen, friendly service in an amiable atmosphere. An extra 2Ls is added on the bill for the live music.
Samsons		Marstalu 2, tel. (+371) 722 95 72	Elegant cellar restaurant with an amazingly original interior of brick and hanging blown glass. The international cuisine is pricey, but Samsons' strength is in its quality and service. Try the salmon in champagne sauce or the chicken curry.
Symposium (Zagara restorans)		Dzirnavu 84/I (Berga Bazars), tel. (+371) 724 25 45, fax (+371) 724 25 46	Relax in and elegant, yet warm setting and enjoy Mediterranean-style cuisine. Choose from a wide selection of Greek and Italian antipasto for starters and then move on to delicious pasta, meat and fish dishes.
Vincents		Elizabetes 19, tel. 733 26 34/733 28 30	Renowned chef Martins Ritins has added sushi to his already outstanding menu of gourmet delicasies. Each Japanese meal is accompanied by wasabe, soy sauce and fresh ginger. Businessmen's lunch. See for yourself why Vincents was chosen to cater for the President of Latvia.
Arve		Aldaru 12/14, tel. (+371) 722 06 49	This small vaulted cellar's low ceilings by the Swedish Gate may not be ideal for basketball players, but it's certainly a good choice for diners who enjoy a good meal in a charming, purple atmosphere. Tasty Latvian specialities.
Charlestons		Blaumana 38/40, tel. 777 05 73	The latest dining sensation by Elmars Tannis, this trendy restaurant and cappuccino bar would be exceptional in New York, San Francisco, Riga or Charleston for that matter. Delicious international fare in a warm, yet elegant setting. Start with the salmon bisque. Breakfast until 12:00 in the coffee bar.
Kolonna		Skunu 16, tel. (+371) 722 38 07	Classy restaurant serving up good European cuisine and great views of Dome Square. Bring a date here for a romantic candle-lit dinner and take a seat by a window.
Livonija		Meistaru 21, tel. 722 80 93	Tucked away in a quaint, vaulted cellar in Old Riga, its inspiring medieval décor will send you back centuries into the past. Great Baltic dishes and a sublime ancient atmosphere. Try the rabbit ragout or, if you're lucky, freshly caught game.
Melnie muki (Black Monks)		Jana seta 1, tel. 721 50 06	What was once a medieval cloister is now one of the most popular restaurants in Riga. The ancient brick walls and arches have been successfully blended with modern elements of style and the menu, which includes seafood and t-bone steaks, is surprisingly reasonable.
Mezoniga Plume (The Wild Plum)		Gertrudes 79, tel. (+371) 724 41 60	One of the few restaurants in the city with a long Western style bar, the Wild Plum offers an extensive and creative menu. Reserve a table under the plum tree.
Oaze		Alunana 2a, tel. (+371) 732 19 20/732 19 38	Navigate your way to the blue and gold halls of the oasis for excellent Baltic and Russian cuisine. The wide selection of cocktails and great service are not a mirage. A favourite of Russian businessmen.
Ordenis		Jana Seta 5, tel. (+371) 722 84 23	Cosy bar/restaurant tucked away in the Jana seta in Old Riga with a number of tasty vegetarian and fish dishes as well as the widest selection of quality Scotch and whisky in town. Dine by the light of crazy croissants.
Palete		Gleznotaju 12/14, tel. (+371) 721 60 37	Perfect for an evening of romance and fine dining, the Palette on Painters Street offers one of the most extensive international menus in town. Spoil your own palate with the swordfish or the shark steak.
Parlaments		Smilsu 1/3, tel. 941 62 01	This relaxing restaurant on Dome Square has huge windows which allow you to observe beautiful sights (and people) while enjoying spicy chilli tortillas or delicious pasta dishes. The Buffalo wings served with Chinese noodles have no doubt raised a few eyebrows.
Piano Bars (Vernisaza)		Terbatas 2, tel. (+371) 728 82 30	Raimonds Pauls' Piano Bar has an elegant setting with beautiful views of the Vermanes garden. Live music every night and Sundays from 13:00 - 16:00. Try the duck soup followed by the stuffed chicken breast.
Raibais Balodis (Colourful Dove)		Koventa Seta, Kaleju 9/11, tel. (+371) 708 75 80	Simply decorated in pleasant shades of blue and white, the dove displays its true colours with delicious European dishes and excellent service.
Sirdsmila		Aldaru 11 (entrance from Troksnu), tel. (+371) 921 81 19	Once one of Riga's smallest restaurants, the Sweetheart has now expanded to include a beautiful enclosed glass atrium which houses a small waterfall and hanging plants. Try the stuffed trout.
Vagners (Richard Wagner)		Skunu 4, tel. (+371) 722 94 95	This quiet restaurant named after Wagner, a one time resident of Riga, is stylistically reminiscent of a Vienese cafe, but don't be deceived. Its impressive menu lists much more than coffee and cake. Sample delicious pastas, seafood, vegetarian dishes and breakfast food.
Alus Arsenals		Pils laukums 4 (Entrance from Arsenala), tel. (+371) 732 38 96	This Latvian beer cellar below the Riga In Your Pocket office serves hearty local fare for a good price. On weekend nights it's hard to find a free oak stump to sit on.
Alus Seta		Tirgonu 6 (Entrance also from M. Monetu 3), tel. (+371) 722 24 31	Yet another rustically decorated restaurant from the Lido people. Grab a tray and watch your shashlik cook while you wait in the queue. Order the traditional Latvian gray peas with bacon and onions and quench your thirst with a cold Uzavas draught.
Dzirnavas (The Mill)		Dzirnavu 76, tel. (+371) 728 62 04	This rustic Lido eatery dishes out tasty food from giant iron kettles. Sadly, the wonderful variety of the buffet makes the chow line a bit confusing. A Latvian saying over the exit proclaims that he who belches while eating will eat in the same place next year!
Kalanda		Jana 8/10, tel. (+371) 722 97 75	Named after the 14th-century fraternal society who once gathered here, this elegant courtyard restaurant offers a wide variety of delicious dishes named after historical figures and sights of Riga. The menu includes such delicacies as bulls' balls. Live music after 19:30.
Kekis (The Cookhouse)		Kengaraga 3, tel. (+371) 713 49 30	The setting of Latvian wooden farm buildings amidst ugly suburban high rises is bizarre, but the atmosphere inside is lively and friendly. Take tram N°7 or 9 from Aspazijas to the Kengaraga stop.
Lielais Kamielis		Vecpilsetas 3, tel. (+371) 721 26 14	Elegant restaurant in the cellar of what used to be a 17th century warehouse for Eastern spices (hence the camel symbol). Discover authentic Latvian dishes, such as grudenis (stewed pig's head with barley, beans and peas), which are rare today even in the countryside.
Rozamunde		Maza Smilsu 8, tel. (+371) 722 77 98	Soak up the pre-war atmosphere of this restored fraternity restaurant and experience 1920s Riga. Sample Latvian nouvelle cuisine and original dishes from Duke Jacob's time (17th century). Live music every night.
Sena Riga		Aspazijas bulv. 22, tel. (+371) 721 68 69	Fun basement restaurant arranged into four cottages representing the four regions of Latvia: Kurzeme, Vidzeme, Zemgale and Latgale. The waitstaff wear traditional costumes to serve hearty portions of Latvian food. Patrons dance to the music played from a stage that looks like a pirate ship.
Staburags		Caka 55, tel. (+371-2) 29 97 87	In this maze of old fashioned, oak furnished rooms you will find traditional Latvian fare served in ceramic pots. The atmosphere will transport you to Latvia's distant past for a surprisingly reasonable price. A word to the wise: local Rigans often share their food here, because portions are so ridiculously large that Henry VIII would have a hard time cleaning off his plate.
Vermanitis		Elizabetes 65, tel. 728 62 89	Lido has opened yet another ethnic, Latvian eatery with a few noted improvements. Quality Argentinian steaks, cooked to order, have been added to the immense buffet and the rustic interior is bright and provides spectacular views of Vermanes Garden.
Aragats		Miera 15, tel. (+371) 737 34 45	Travel to Yerevan without leaving Riga! Allow David and Lubova to treat you to mouth-watering hashlama (mutton & vegetable soup) and delicious shashliks. Your hosts will even chop up your food for you. Don't leave without trying one of their special wines or coffees.
Arba		Gertrudes 33/35, tel. 737 40 81	A must see, this casual restaurant is entirely enclosed within a glass atrium on the top of a building. The tasty Armenian food is cheap and the interior consists of hanging vines, rock ledges and a wooden farmer's cart which doubles as a salad bar.
Kurmis (the Mole)		Merkela 9, tel. (+371) 722 45 14	Dimly-lit cellar restaurant decorated with realistic looking grape vines and sketches of moles fishing and playing ball on the walls. Tasty dishes and shashliks galore, even salmon on a stick, all served with fresh lavash(thin pita bread). The cheesy pop music is a bit annoying.
Zangezurs		Rupniecibas 5, tel. 732 60 46	The first thing one notices about this cosy cellar restaurant is the gigantic bear skin on the wall. Enjoy delicious shashliks, hashlama (mutton soup), dolma (minced meat in grape leaves) and other Armenian favourites for a good price.
Asia		Marstalu 6/8, tel. (+371) 722 53 05	This expensive Chinese restaurant has a fountain in the main dining hall and specialises in banquets and business dinners. Their extensive menu lists such exotic dishes as frogs' legs in garlic sauce.
Don Fa		Avotu 33, tel. (+371-2) 27 61 01	The first step inside reveals a canopy of realistic looking vines and flowers hanging from the ceiling, as well as Chinese lanterns and even a parakeet. The food is OK, but a bit pricey. Don Fa is also the name of the house specialty, a perch dish. Rice costs extra!
Šan - Dun		Mukusalas 41, tel. 761 35 80	The location across the river may be discouraging, but the cuisine is worth the trip. Pass by the stone lions guarding the entrance and walk over the wooden foot bridge to sample sweet and sour fish, delicious garlic broccoli and other dishes exotic to Riga. You can rent the elegantly decorated rooms in the back.
Sanhaja		Grecinieku 26, tel. (+371) 722 84 62	Great for dinner or a business lunch, this restaurant serves excellent Chinese food which will please the palate without breaking the bank. Try the spicy calamari or the sweet and sour pork. Sit on the couch by the window and watch the House of Blackheads come to life across the street.
Zelta Panda (Golden Panda)		Kaleju 54, tel. (+371) 722 80 09	The dishes lack a little spice, but the cuisine is great for the price. Try the succulent Gunbao chicken and the fried caramel bananas for dessert.
Verdins		Maza Pils 11, tel. 722 13 39	It's worth coming here for the atmosphere alone. Dine in one of Old Riga's most beautiful and secluded courtyard restaurants and sample savoury bouillabaisse or veal escalopes in Dijon sauce. Soothing live solo guitar music accompanies your meal in the evening.
Mimino (The Falcon)		Barona 78, tel. (+371) 731 06 41	Cosy little cellar restaurant where you can watch your shashliks and kebabs cook over an open flame in a brick fire pit next to the bar. Order the sand-boiled coffee with dessert.
Rioni		Brivibas 226, tel. (+371-2) 56 83 82	Definitely the most elegant Caucasian restaurant in Riga, Rioni serves Georgian and Armenian favourites such as hashlama and dolma. If you call ahead they'll roast an entire suckling pig for 60Ls. Complimentary oranges after the meal are a nice touch.
Jever Bistro		Kalku 6, tel. (+371) 722 70 78	One of the first restaurants to pop up after the iron curtain fell, it serves delicious dishes from Hamburg and Bavaria. It would be a completely Teutonic experience if only the waiting staff could speak German!
Grieku Restorans		Skarnu 10/20, tel. (+371) 721 10 26	Gourmet Greek food in the heart of Old Riga. Start with, of course, the Greek platter and then move on to authentic moussaka or souvlaki. Dine inside or relax in the white-washed courtyard to experience the Mediterranean in Latvia. Waiters are courteous and attentive, but the prices are a bit steep. Very popular in the evening, so be sure to reserve a table! Owned by Andrejs Zagars, the director of the National Opera and father of Osiris and Symposium.
Bollywood Chutney		Torna 4/3B - 2 (Jekaba Kazarmas), tel. 732 10 10	Just follow the scent of exotic spices which pour out onto Torna iela to find Riga's only Indian restaurant. Listen to Indian music while feasting on delicious tandoo-ri, murgh and other classic dishes. The secret to their success is that almost everything, from the spices they use to the furniture you sit on, is imported from India.
Dublin	Vagnera 16, tel. (+371) 722 35 87		Riga's 'other' Irish pub may not have been the first, but it is certainly not the least of its genre. Football paraphernalia compliments the décor which is everything one would expect from a purveyor of Guinness and Harp. Their extensive menu is excellent and has something for everyone.
Murphy's Pub		Teatra 12, tel. (+371) 721 69 61	Murphy's Stout on tap but otherwise far removed from the Emerald Isle. Get lucky on the slot machines.
Paddy Whelan's		Grecinieku 4, tel. 721 02 49	Riga's first Irish bar offers good pub grub, including build-your-own sandwiches, and breakfast served until 20:00. Cheaper than upstairs, it is a magnet for scruffy students and anyone out for fun. Often show sporting events on a big screen TV.
Roisin Dubh (The Black Rose)		Grecinieku 4, tel. (+371) 721 02 49	Located directly above Paddy's, this bar is the undisputed favourite hangout for Riga's foreign community. Join Riga's English-speaking expats for a Guinness and a great time. The kitchen serves tasty Irish and Italian dishes.
Tim Mc Shane's		Tirgonu 10, tel. (+371) 722 54 81	This Irish pub provides a warm setting where one can order a Guinness without stepping over the carcasses of fallen students. Good, classic Irish meals and live bands occasionally play in the cellar. Unfortunately, the service is slow and it gets smokey in the evening.
1739		Skarnu 6, tel. 721 13 98	Enter this historic 18th century house and discover one Riga's best kept secrets. In addition to delicious Italian dishes like mushroom filled ravioli, 1739 serves such international delights as Australian steaks and Hungarian paprika chicken.
Giuditta		Barona 2, tel. 707 09 37	This authentic Italian buffet and pizzeria is certainly a welcome addition to Riga's dining scene. The delicious, freshly made pizzas are the best deal at 1.50 - 3Ls. The fruit and salad bars are also a good option, but if you're really in the mood to splurge, try their pasta or perhaps the pork escalopes in wine sauce.
Lolo Pizzeria		Elizabetes 51, tel. (+371) 728 13 39	Over thirty thin crust pizzas and dozens of tasty Italian pasta, meat and seafood dishes. The scents wafting from the oven are inviting, but the prices are a little bit exaggerated. The horrible techno music does not aid digestion.
Mamma Mia		Caka 26, tel. (+371) 731 22 10	What do you get when you mix two Italian-Swedes and a restaurant? Excellent food! Try their delicious thin-crust pizzas, calzones and pasta. If you're looking for authentic, freshly made Italian cuisine for a great price, this is the place to go. The prices will pleasantly surprise you.
Marco Polo		Maza Smilsu 17	Relax in warm peach coloured surroundings and choose from a variety of light, healthy dishes including Italian favourites. Cheap businessmen's lunch. Don't leave without tasting the Egyptian flower tea.
Roma		Pulkveza Brieza 6, tel. 948 03 48	For such a tiny restaurant, it has a fairly impressive menu. Take a gander at the beautiful pictures of Rome, order pizzas, pastas and mains and read Italian press. The food doesn't make you scream 'buono' but it's not too bad.
Zilais Putns		Tirgonu 4, tel. (+371) 722 82 14	The Blue Bird provides an excellent view from its perch on and above Dome Square. Riga's oldest Italian restaurant won't disappoint with a wide variety of tasty pizzas and delicious dishes which would make Pavarotti proud.
Café Do		Arhitektu 1, tel. 722 00 20	A Japanese restaurant in Riga? Well… not really. This Japanese ‘style’ café, owned by the president of the Latvian Judo Association, serves some dishes with Japanese names, but most of the tasty mains are international or Baltic in nature. Unique black and orange interior. Good for a cocktail and a canapé.
Shalom		Brivibas 158, tel. (+371) 736 49 11	Latvian (not kosher) food with Jewish names but still a focal point of the local Jewish community. So have a beer and drink to life ! Mazeltov!
La Kukaraca		Audeju 16 (Centrs department store, top floor), tel. (+371) 701 80 18	This restaurant serves original dishes from south of the border, not the fast food which is so popular north of the Rio Grande. The food is excellent, but the service can be a bit slow at times. Sip a Corona and take a well-deserved siesta.
Traktieris		Antonijas 8, tel. 733 24 55	At last the city with a Russian-majority population has a decent Russian restaurant! The decorations, music, friendly service, low prices and great food, from mouth-watering borsch (red beetroot soup) to spicy mains, make it well worth a visit. They have also opened a take away place next door for those who need a quick fix of Russian food.
Divi Lasi (Two Salmons)		Tirgonu 8, tel. (+371) 721 34 70	Slide your tray along and grab fried calamari, dried anchovies, breaded fish flllets and seaweed salad. Food is sometimes cold, but it's OK for a moderately priced lunch and one of the few seafood places in what purports to be a port city.
Zivju Restorans		Vagnera 4, tel. (+371) 721 67 13	Expensive fish restaurant has mussels, oysters, lobster, sole, cod, salmon and even shark, as fresh as can be so far from the ocean.
Arhitekts		Amatu 4, tel. (+371) 722 61 51	Dark cellar restaurant whose classic Soviet-style interior hasn't changed much since the 1980s. The menu and service, however, have greatly improved. Cheap cocktails.
Marrutku Maizites (Horseradish sandwiches)		Kramu 4	The students are back and so is their favourite hangout. Apparently it's hard to keep a commie down! Join Marx, Lenin and many a drunken 'scholar' for a drink of vodka and contemplate the materialist evolution of mankind.
Nellija		Pils 13/15, tel. (+371) 722 64 06	Commrades! This place puts the 'oh' back in Soviet! Dark brown interior, lots of unused space, typical Soviet disco in the back and, of course, the banquet hall has a sauna.
Nostalgija		Kalku 22, tel. (+371) 722 23 38	A former Soviet fashion studio has been lovingly restored in all its optimistic, tasteless, socialist realist grandeur! From the marble walkways over the waterfall to the murals on the ceiling, it's completely over the top and very funny. Average meals and good coffee.
Tower		Smilsu 7, tel. (+371) 721 61 55,  email	This lively, casual restaurant is decorated with portraits of screen stars and musicians like Bob Marley and Elvis. You can order anything ffrom pasta and Tex-Mex tacos to t-bone steaks and paella. Try their lunch specials which include salad bar or the classic American breakfast of eggs and sausages.
13 Kresli (13 Chairs)		Jauniela 11	This tiny pub and steakhouse offers a warm, cosy atmosphere and is a great place for an intimate date. The steaks are tasty, but aren't exactly big and bloody like an American would expect them to be.
Boulevard N°20		Aspazijas 20, tel. (+371) 721 60 33	This elegant cellar restaurant serves steaks of both the T-bone and sirloin variety. At lunch time the place is full of well-dressed professionals which the staff cater to in a variety of languages. Also known for their pizzas.
Dnipro		Alunana 6, tel. (+371) 722 28 58	Named after Ukraine's largest river, Dnipro reminds this editor of his grandma Kuzma's home cooking. Excellent vareniki (potato dumplings) and borsch (red beet soup) as well as other dishes. Slavic newspapers and even a painting of Taras Shevchenko!
Pie Kuma		Caka 65, tel. (+371-2) 29 88 11	Cellar restaurant with quaint Ukrainian decorations. Sample delicious vareniki (potato dumplings) and the spiciest borsch (red beet soup) in town!
Hanoja		Barona 93 (entrance from Tallinas), tel. (+371-2) 27 23 24	Decorated with oriental lamps and paintings of dragons on the walls, Hanoi serves up flavourful meals which are more Eastern European than South East Asian. The service is good, but the prices are a little steep.
Saigona		Dzirnavu 87, tel. (+371) 728 53 03	Seating in a bright room or in dark private booths in the back. The food is not spicy and not that great, hence not very Vietnamese. Order a ginseng tea and meditate on what you're doing there.