Eating 


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Eating in Brittany

THE OLD COMMODORE'S GUIDE TO QUALITY RESTAURANTS
St VAAST TO GRANVILLE
2001

St VAAST

*** Les Fuschias. Avenue Foch. Tel: 2 33 54 42 26. Restaurant within a Logis de France with old style charm and silver service. An arborium including fuschias comprises the restaurant with excellent fisha nd sea food at a reasonable price.

BARFLEUR

*** Moderne Tel No 2 33 23 12 14. recommended by our friend the President of Barnville-Carteret Yacht Club.

CHERBOURG

**** Le Grandgousier: 21, rue de l'Abbaye, Tel 2 33 53 19 43: Improved for 1997 with honours for cuisine and presentation. A good class restaurant with excellent service and menu. Prices are very reasonable for cordon bleu food in "silver service" surrounds.

** La Regence: Quai de Caligny. Tel 2 33 43 05 16: good menu choice with good value for money. Accommodation available.

GOURY

*** Auberge de Goury. Tel 2 33 52 77 01. At the lighthouse and lifeboat station. This needs 30 minutes drive from Dielette or Carteret but worth the visit. Phone first as it is usually full because of Pascal Retout's dexterity with Sea Bass.

DIÉLETTE

? Hotel de la Falaise: Tel 2 33 04 08 40. On the quayside. Very reasonable FF80 menu in a dining room with good views of the harbour and the Nuclear Reprocessing Plant. The FF128 "assiette" is reasonable but the menu choice is very limited and the service slow.

** Le Semaphore: Tel 02 33 52 18 98. A short taxi ride towards Flamanville. The restaurant is perched on top of the cliff with great sea views and an interesting Creole cuisine together with the usual French fare. Booking at weekends is imperative..

** Le Raz Blanchard: Tel 2 33 93 10 24 (Mobile 06 87872546) The Yacht Club bar and restaurant under same ownership as Le Paix at Les Pieux (Georges and Eliane) Le Paix has a better menu!.

* Le Phare: Tel 02 33

 

 

LES PIEUX

* Hotel de la Paix: Tel: 2 33 52 4190. A FF75 taxi ride (can hold 7 people) (tel 2 33 06 80 25 52 49) for 6km and very hospitable with good menu and service. Frequently, live music in the form of Country style can be enjoyed here. Beware, closed on Sundays. Mme Eliane Trécan (wife of Georges at Raz Blanchard). The Menu of FF180

CARTERET/BARNEVILLE

*** L'Hermitage : Tel 2 33 04 96 29. Under new management and very welcoming even if late on the tide. The shellfish menu of FF120 is BRILLIANT. A modern façade with good service. Worth a reservation by telephone.

** Hotel Du Cap et du Sable: Tel : 2 33 Logis de France with good menu, friendly and helpful service. Very popular with families as there is a spacious dining room attached to the hotel. Sometimes a little noisy.

* Hotel Le Carteret, 5 Ave de la République Tel :2 33 04 95 63. Reasonable food but not as good as the other two.

* Rest Le Gohan: Tel 2 33 04 95 33. About 30 mins walk from the marina towards Barneville Plage. Worth a stroll.

PORTBAIL

*** Auberge Rendevous de Pecheurs : Tel 33 04 81 37. Very good menus at excellent prices in old Norman style surrounds. Ground floor bar and outside tables for drinks.

? La Fringale: Nice for a drink outside but beware the "plate of moules" for FF45! Sometimes runs out of the choice of food that you went there for. Set menu is OK.

X La Galice: Service indifferent and food not particularly good. Unusual for a Logis de France. OK for a drink outside in the square.

LES ILES CHAUSEY

** DU FORT ET DES ILES, Tel: 2 33 50 25 02 Always good shellfish and locally caught produce. Wine list a little short but the Gamay is always good value. Bernard Pichard (The owner) always willing to take sterling at very good rate. Be quick! This is his last year and the business has been sold.

GRANVILLE

** NORMANDY CHAUMIERE, 20 Rue P Poirier, Tel: 33 50 01 71. Good value shellfish menu. Tables outside for the better weather in courtyard setting.

** LES GOURMETS, 3 Rue Georges Clémenceau Tel : 33 50 13 27. Another reasonable choice of fruit de mer. Tucked away inside a modern interior.

Copyright Stan Cleal July 2001



THE OLD COMMODORE'S GUIDE TO QUALITY RESTAURANTS
ST MALO TO LE MORBIHAN
2001

ST MALO

*** Taverne Borgnefesse, 10 Rue du Puits aux Braies: Tel 2 99 40 05 05. French local restaurant now restored to former excellence with outstanding host/patron - Jacques-Yves Cadiou. Excellent carte de vins at reasonable prices. Appeared in Floyd in France with acclaim. Outstanding ambiance, entertainment and style.

**** Porte St Pierre, Rue St Pierre: Tel 2 99 40 91 27 The menu of FF180 including seafood platter. Superb! Good service and ambience. Lady chef and owner Mme Bertonniere, has more rosettes than you can shake a stick at. Near the plage on the West side of town. Accommodation available.

*** Le Robert Surcouf, 18 rue de Toulouse : 2 99 40 47 65. Found by another Past Commodore, who rates the cuisine as exceptionally good at good price. Frequently has venison and guinea-fowl on the menu with home made terrine.

** Restaurant des Iles: 6, Rue de la Corne de Cerf. Tel 2 99 40 98 68. Good value small restaurant with French style. Low prices and good food and service with a smile. Usually a good seafood selection on the menu.

ST SERVAN

** La Brochette, (top of the high street) A good pizzeria/seafood (simple 78ff menu).

* Le Hoggar, St Servan -facade has improved and it is still a popular place for those enjoying a couscous à l'originale - cheap and good in Moroccan style.

* L'Atre, tel: 2 99 81 68 39. A popular small restaurant alongside the Tour Solidor. The service is a little slow but who cares on holiday! Not such good value as some restaurants.

* Le Boutefeu Tel: 2 99 81 71 14. A very small wood grill restaurant (it can get a bit hot in the dining room) but the food is good and inexpensive.

RANCE - Mordreuc

** Abri des Flottes: Restaurant comfortable with good views over the river and reasonable prices for a country/seafood menu. The only restaurant in town. Quay dries out when the "plug" is pulled at the Barrage - beware!

 

 


RANCE - Le Chatelier

** Restaurant St Patrick, (on the bridge): Tel 2 96 83 21 06. A brilliant 110FF menu with cheap wine and Murphy's stout available. Comfortable modern restaurant. Worth a second visit.

** Auberge de Val du Rance at La Hisse: Tel 2 96 39 16 07.(up the hill) Logis de France with good menu and good local custom. Upstairs restaurant for parties.

* Le Ty Corentin: Former home of the Club Nautique de Roche du Fumoy (CNRF) Have developed the restaurant side with some success and with accommodation of two rooms. Barbeques held from time to time. Now under new ownership.

DINAN - Town

* La Duchess Anne. Tel: 2 96 39 09 43. At the far side of the square. Small but reasonably priced (like the Pelican used to be!). Nine rooms if you are tired of the boating life.

** Auberge du Pelican (formerly Le Pelican) Tel 2 96 3947 05. Very good and attractive restaurant with pastel shades in place of the red gingham table- cloths. Has returned to "pelican" style of menu. i.e. FF65; 75; 85 etc depending on the number of courses. Strongly recommended for service, food and style.

*** Chez La Mère Pourcel: A more gentile restaurant with very good food and higher prices. Set in a beautiful 15th century building with silver service.

DINAN - Port.

** L'Aventure (Rue du Petit Fort) Tel 2 96 39 56 34. Wonderful T- bone steak over charcoal with a dozen oysters - all for FF146. Service leaves a little to be desired if the restaurant is busy. Wine reasonably priced. Beautiful half-timbered surroundings.

** Le Relais Corsaire Bar: Moderate prices for good food. Next door twice as expensive. Believed to use the same kitchen.

** La Kabylie: For those of us who like couscous this is very good value with heaps of food for FF80 or less.

** Le Myrian Bar (by the bridge overlooking the river) Marvellous for a drink by the riverside either inside or out. Champagne is only FF25 per glass - enjoy!

 


LANVALLAY

** Le Bistrot de Viaduc: Tel 2 96 85 95 00. Across the bridge and up the hill. Superb views with very good food from the former chef of Le Relais Corsaire. Booking recommended. Alfresco very pleasant on a sunny evening with fabulous views down the valley.

ILE DE BREHAT

** Hotel Bellevue (Port-Clos) Tel: 2 96 20 00 05. Good value especially for seafood - wine selection so-so. Prices reasonable. Able to eat outside with wonderful views. Confirmed very good for 1997.

* Vieille Auberge (Le Bourg) Tel 2 96 20 00 24: Choice not good and prices excessive - occasionally the only place left with room to spare!

* Bar/Rest (Le Bourg) Tel: Simple choice but good, with many tables outside through the bar at the rear.

X Le Chardon Bleu: Don't, unless you have to. (From a Brehat resident 1999).

LEZARDRIEUX

** Hotel Auberge du Pont: Very good value - good seafood menu reasonable wine list. Service good.

PONTRIEUX

** Le Moulin du Richel: Very good pizzeria with outside tables alongside the weir in beautiful surrounds - reasonable cost.

** Chez Jacqueline: Used to be called Café des Abattoirs (Slaughterhouse Café) The meat should be fresh! Very cheap usually including plonk and very friendly.

** La Sterne: Tel : 2 96 95 19 55. Modern restaurant on the quay. Nouvelle cuisine at a good price.

* Chateau de la Roche-Jagu: Was once excellent but change of ownership may have affected this. Check with Harbourmaster. Can anchor off if keel can settle in mud!
Look out for the 500 ton dredgers during the night! Can be a rude awakening. Anchor out of mid stream!!!

TREGUIER

**** Kastell Dinec'h, Route de Treguier/Lannion Tel 2 96 92 49 39. Exceptionally good restaurant using nouvelle cuisine but GOOD! MUST telephone and also get a taxi as only two tables for non-residents. MY FAVOURITE PLACE ON THIS COAST. Worth any effort to get a table.

*** L'Estuaire : Still excellent value for money Tel 2 96 92 30 25. Worth a phone call for a window table overlooking the River Jaudy. The menu of FF185 is superb.

*** St. Bernard - near the quay. Tel : 2 96 92 20 77. Husband and wife? business with small interior of dry stone walls. Good charcoal grill with oysters, gambas and trout. The big menu of FF155 is OUTSTANDING!!! Good wine list also.

* Le Canotier , near the Cathedral and Fish Market Rue Renan. Tel: 2 96 92 47 70.
Ownership since 1996 - Kathy from N.Z. and her French husband, the chef. The service was disappointing and the food only moderate.

PORT BLANC

** Hotel Grand, Tel 2 96 92 66 52: Good value menu - take a beer at the tables across the road. A logis de France.

PERROS-GUIREC

** Hotel de Levant: Medium priced and right on the Port.

** Hotel du Quai, Rue Ernest Renan. Tel 2 96 23 22 88
Another good value shellfish restaurant.


TRESTRAUO

* La Marie Galante Tel 02 96 49 09 34: Very good seafood restaurant alongside the beach. A varied and reasonable menu.

PLOUMANAC'H

*** Hotel du Parc: Tel 2 96 91 40 80. Excellent menu with good prices and service. (Logis de France) Mme Loic Hemery (Patronne) has continued the past quality and enhanced it. Service is outstanding as is the food presentation and quality. Very popular - book ahaead

*** Hotel Coste-Mor: Tel 2 96 91 40 89 - Good menu and good prices. The view of Chateau Costères and Plage St Guirec - great! The seafood platter at FF155 is amazing (includes lobster, crayfish or whole chancre). The extra * is for the view.

* Le Cabastan: Good meals especially the mussels and the sole. The dessert ice creams are the best in France. Great for children and semi-grownups.

** Le Mao: Tel 2 96 91 40 92. Very busy but the seafood platter at FF100 is excellent. Mostly eating al fresco. The menu of FF 112 includes a whole Canadian lobster and sole meunière with muscadet at FF48. Just get fat!

TREGASTEL

** Le Coz Pors: Tel 2 96 23 40 28. Unpretentious restaurant with reasonable menu and prices. Good service.

** Le Roof : Tel 2 96 23 48 99. Part of the Hotel Beausejour with reasonable prices and good seafood menu. Wonderful views over the rocks and islands.

TREBEURDEN

** Hotel Ker-an-Nod: North side of harbour Tel No: 2 96 23 50 21. Very good FF99 seafood menu. Rising to FF156

** Restaurant La Tourelle: Upstairs - good value for money with very good views over the new marina. Beware the occasions when the menu gets shortened but the price does not. Need to book as the marina is often full and so is the restaurant.

** Crêperie des Iles: My French friends think this the best crêperie in Bretagne - I agree! Now enlarged with variety of pizza, crepes and grills.

LANNION

· Le Montagnard, Venelle des Trois Avocats: Tel 2 96 37 23 72. Cuisine savoyard - raclette, fondue. Reasonable and good.

 

 

ROSCOFF

** L'Ecume des Jours, Quai Auxerre. Tel 02 98 61 22 83. A perfect position with drying mooring alongside the restaurant (with power!). Food very good and largely shellfish as one would assume at a Port like Roscoff.

ILE DE BATZ

* Le Roc'h d'Armor: Simple menu reasonably priced. Near the ferry terminal but caters for the ferry tourists.

* Grand Hotel: Two simple menus with a la carte. Mostly shellfish as one would expect. ON THE SEAFRONT.

* Chez JPP: A bar next to the bakery -open most hours. Small menu with pizza and crepes as well as steak etc.

? Crêperie du Port: If you want a window table you need to be a one-eyed monk and whistle "dixie" ! Even if the restaurant is empty. Do not think of asking for food after 21.00 - nothing doing!


ABERWRAC'H -Le Paluden

** Relais des Abers: Reopened this year and back to good standards.

*** Auberge du Pont: Tel No 02 98 04 16 69. The Préfect de Police eats here - it can't be bad! Very good food at reasonable prices and character boating interior complete with naval uniforms and old ship paintings. Interesting sailing schedules of the Great liners. Wonderful home-made amuse-bouches and tiny rolls. Menu of F120 particularly good.

CAMARET-SUR-MER

*** Hotel de France , on the quay. Tel 2 98 27 93 06. A good Logis de France menu at excellent prices. Terrace and 1st floor. Service is good and presentation. One of the best equipped wine lists that I have seen.

** Le Stuyvel: Reasonable value for reasonable food. Menus from FF72 up to FF185 for the Gourmet version.

RIVER AULNE

*** L'Ermitage, Rosnoen : Tel 2 98 81 93 61. Riverside restaurant of some excellence. Anchor outside, row ashore and enjoy marvellous menus.

 

MORGAT

** Hotel Julia, Rue de Treflez : Tel. 2 98 27 05 89. A walk of 1 mile but another Logis de France with very good food and a 1920's ambience.

** Moderne, Up the steps. Tel 98 27 00 10. Nice to sit outside on a fine day.

DOUARNENEZ/TREBOUL

* Le Coulinec Tel 2 98 74 11 78. Not a lot to say considering this to be one of the major fishing ports.

STE EVETTE

** La Sainte-Evette: Tel 2 98 70 10 29. Above the Capitainerie with good sea views and very reasonable seafood menu. Happy to take late arrivals upto 2100.

AUDIERNE (Upriver)

** Au Bar Breton: Tel 2 98 70 10 95.2 Quai Jacques de Thezac. Speciality in shellfish with wonderful menu of FF145 and other very good choices - Bar in this case is "sea-bass". Worth a second and third visit with good al fresco facilities.

** Au Roi Gradlon, Sur la Plage Tel 2 98 70 04 51: Logis de France . A little walk from the marina but worth the rosette for cuisine.

ILES DE GLENAN

? Le Boucane: Just behind the main restaurant which is expensive (there are only the two!) The FF95 is not particularly good unless you Have shellfish but when the devil drives and hunger strikes ....!!!

* Les Viviers Tel: It owns the vivier outside so all is fresh but so is the price. With 500 boats at anchor it is a lottery if you can get a table 7 days in advance - stock up on board to avoid the pangs of hunger or call in the bar by 1230 to book for lunch or 1900 for dinner. Telephone bookings were not accepted.

BENODET

** Domaine de Kereven: Tel: 2 98 57 02 46. Logis

BEG MEIL

** Hotel de Bretagne: Tel: 2 98 94 98 04. Logis de France.


CONCARNEAU

** Penfret: Inside the walls of the Ville Close. Good value and service with outside tables for the fine days.

* La Bonne Auberge : Tel 2 98 97 04 30. In the main square with tables outside to watch the world go by. The usual fresh fish menu available.

PONT-AVEN

* Chez Candide: A small but very pleasant and traditional crêperie next to the Post Office.

ILE DE GROIX

**** Les Courreaux, Tel 2 97 86 82 66. One of the best restaurants on the island with menus from FF75. Wonderful cuisine and value. The smart money eats here! Booking advisable - call in and reserve, on the way to the Bourg or poserphone.

LA TRINITÉ

** Le Rouzic : Tel 2 97 55 72 06. On the quay in an expensive town. Good shellfish.

* Restaurant de Commerce, Far end of town towards the bridge. Good view down river and excellent value menu.

AURAY/ST GOUSTAN

* Crêperie de L'Abbaye: Tel 2 97 24 10 85. On the terrace of the beautiful 15th Century square of St Goustan. The old restaurant is sadly now a crêperie but the crepes are excellent.

** Le Relais Franklin @ St Goustan. On the quay opposite the moorings in the river. A good meeting place to watch the world go by - with reasonable food.

*** L'Eglantine Tel No: 2 97 56 46 55 . The best of the clutch in the small square at St Goustan. Excellent service and one of the few restaurants which shows the client the food before cooking! Very good value with a view of the world - sometimes with street entertainers outside.

** La Marie Galante/L'Armoric. Tel No 2 97 24 18 51. Near the Auray bridge. The new "in place" for excellent short menu fish/pizza style food. Do not underestimate the quality of the cuisine here! BOOK EARLY! Or be disappointed.

 

LE BONO

* La Chaloupe: Tel 2 97 57 81 43. Recommended by local friends and OK for a snack lunch such as moules/frites. Has improved this year.

*** Le Forban: Tel 2 97 57 88 65. A Logis de France with excellent views over the river both from inside and the terrace. An excellent menu with plenty of choice with gourmet selections. Worth reserving a place.

ILE AUX MOINES

*** Chez Charlemagne. Tel: 2 97 26 32 43. On the quayside to the East. This has total local ambience and is worth a second and third + visits. The shellfish menu is fresh and superb. One of the best restaurants in Le Morbihan with good service and inexpensive cost of wines. The "smart money" eats here.

ARRADON

** Le Logadon: My wife says that it is brilliant! But it is a long walk to the town centre and not much when there. The prices are higher in mid-summer.

MONTSERRAC

? Avel Dro: This is the only pub / restaurant - Large rolls only!! But very native in an out of the way place.

VANNES

*** Le Sinagot. Tel: 2 97 54 19 17. Just inside the Main gate. A very good FF140 menu. The wines are quite expensive for what they are and a bottle of cider is F50. Nice to watch the world go by al fresco.

** La Jonquière. 9 Rue des Halles: Tel 2 97 54 08 34 Very good value shellfish and other dishes. Very popular with the locals. Plenty of room with good service and ambience.

* Kalon Breiz Crêperie. 6 rue des Halles: Almost next door to the above.
A traditional Breton creperie with good food including Breton sausage.

LA ROCHE BERNARD

** Auberge des Deux Magots: Tel 2 99 90 60 75. Place du Bouffray. Logis de France. The Past Past Past Past Commodore eats here and enjoys!

 


ST NAZAIRE

* La Galiote, 45 Rue d'Anjou. Tel 40 01 94 14. A good Crêperie in a town of few good places to eat.

 

These restaurants are the author's own personal opinions. Occasionally one experiences an unfortunate meal - do tell me - I will update. Any other recommendations with details please send an e-mail to scimitar@gtonline.net or Phone me: 00 44 1481 256910.