ARCHIPELAGOES - Estonia - Eating in Tallinn

Name	Contact	Adress	Information

Restaurants
Pizza Americana		Müürivahe 2, tel. 644 88 37, fax 631 33 43. Open 11:30 - 22:30, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. Pikk 1-3, tel. 644 07 10, fax 631 33 43. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Delivery, tel. 644 88 37.	Peaches on your pizza? Yes, that and elk meat, if you're brave. The deep-dish pizzas aren't quite Chicago-style, but they haven't got much competition. Load up at the salad bar, or on their cocktail of the day. Thursday is student day. Sunday is family day, with large pizzas for 85EEK and lollies for the kiddies.
Argentina		Pärnu mnt.19, tel. 660 51 77, fax 631 06 20.	After a day rounding up the herds in rugged terrain, husky Argentinian farmers need protein, and lots of it. That's what you'll find here: plate-sized steaks, cooked up on an open grill in the centre of the room. The rancheros here, however, are a civilised sort: main dishes automatically come with warm rolls and fresh green salad. We've never been lucky enough to witness their floor show.
Arzu		behind Kosmos Cinema.	Chicken, lamb or pork kebabs served in a no-nonsense box of a building. So good you'll want to lick your fingers - and nobody here would raise an eyebrow. This is a good place to try one of those delectable, unpronounceable Georgian wines, which elsewhere might cost as much as a fine French vintage.
Exit		Sauna 2, tel. 644 20 31, fax 644 83 17.	Exit's proprietor used to fly to Tbilisi for the weekend just to enjoy harcho, lavash, dolma, hachapuri and kebab. Now he serves up these hearty southern dishes arranged like nouvelle cuisine on delicate china in a sleek, urban atmosphere. Don't think of it as disparity, think of it as the best of both worlds.
Kaukaasia		Lembitu 14, tel. 660 50 21.	What more do you need on a Caucasian menu than four kinds of kebab and a plate full of dolma? What more do you need in interior decorating than oriental rugs on the wall and a few swords? Kaukaasia is minimalist, but satisfying and inexpensive (main dishes 60 - 90EEK). Add 10% for delivery.
Morimer		Faehlmanni 37, tel. 601 52 50/(8-251) 13 093.	The waitress advised us so strongly against the hash, an Armenian jellied meat dish "so fatty you can't get a spoon into it", that we obediently ordered kebab and dolma instead - for about 40EEK each! A strictly local place buried deep among the wooden houses of Kadriorg, Morimer is better known as Armeenia ja Eesti köök (Armenian and Estonian cooking), as the sign says.
Sahdaq		Tartu 81.	Dining here is an adventure - from seeking out the restaurant in the slightly shady area just past the bus station to deciphering the menu. They claim to serve Azerbaijani cuisine (main dishes 20 - 60EEK), but don't add much commentary to help those of us born west of the Urals. We like the way the plastic placemats compliment the Oriental prints on the walls.
Ai Sha Ni Ya		Mere pst. 6, tel. 660 18 42.	One of the early birds on Tallinn's ethnic restaurant scene, Ai Sha Ni Ya ('Es-to-ni-a' in Mandarin) has paper lanterns and lion-headed chopstick holders. Newer arrivals, however, are putting more emphasis on authentic cuisine. The service, too, doesn't quite keep pace.
China Town		Kärberi 34a, tel. 635 67 95, fax 635 67 93.	It's a long way to come for Chinese food, but out here in Lasnamäe you'll find the same quality as you will in the centre, at considerably lower prices. The Chinese chef has 24 years of experience in the kitchen. And get this: sticky rice. Take bus N°51 or 53 from the centre.
Golden Dragon		Pikk 37, tel. 631 35 06, fax 641 93 48.	It's hard to walk right past the Golden Dragon - even when you're headed somewhere else. The delicious aroma has been known to tempt people in off the street. Service is warm and gracious. Dishes are served on warming trays (with rice!) so that you can linger over your aubergine in garlic sauce. Worth every cent.
Hong Lou		Vineeri 4, tel./fax 626 18 47.	Sincerity and service are the key words at the Red House. From ornate trappings to gracious smiles and a lengthy menu, you'll find all the familiar traits of a Chinese restaurant.
Kathmandu		Rataskaevu 3/5, tel./fax 644 02 54.	Although the name clearly suggests Nepal, the menu includes familiar Chinese fare. The deep armchairs certainly add ambience, but we're not sure what kind. A full meal starts at 100EEK.
Little China		Vene 30, tel. 631 31 26, fax 631 30 57.	A meal here is a leisurely ceremony, as it should be, from an array of appetisers to jasmine tea. Try sesame fried pork, chicken fingers and spicy soups. The restaurant also has a sauna with plunge pool.
Teater		Lai 31, tel. 646 62 61.	This ain't Louisiana, honey, and if you miss the Vieux Carré, then you might should get yourself a ticket to the pelican state rather than looking for Cajun cooking in Tallinn. The decor is tasteful, but Teater could use a bit of staff training. Lunch specials until 15:00 on weekdays. Opening hours are likely to change
Lydia		Koidula 13a, tel. 641 05 59, fax 641 05 50.	Lydia serves up a lyrical menu befitting the restaurant's namesake, poet Lydia Koidula. Choose from the Seamen's Memoirs, the Poet's Favourite, or the Gardener's Love and cap off with a Polar Bear's Dream. Mommies and daddies of picky eaters need only give a whisper to the waiter, who'll cook up whatever it is the little one eats.
Mihkli Trahter		Endla 23, tel. 631 10 79, fax 45 17 67.	The Mihkli Hotel's new restaurant feels a bit like your standard, off-the-shelf ethnic restaurant, with exposed beams and wooden everything. The menu, while not long, does offer some good deals.
Tallinna Eesti Maja		Lauteri 1, tel. 645 52 52/699 21 00, fax 699 21 01.	A favourite for showing off Estonian cooking at it's most visitor-friendly, Tallinn's Estonian House is the place to try sült, mulgikapsas, kama and even Estonian wines (bear in mind that grapes don't grow this far north, but grapes are not the only fermentable fruit in the world). Their lunch buffet is filling at 75EEK.
Vanaema Juures		Rataskaevu 10/12, tel. 626 90 80, fax 626 90 99.	Your Granny may not have served up mulgikapsad and wild boar, but the Estonian memm at Granny's place does. Granny's veal and honey-glazed chicken are more familiar and just as tasty.
Cathedral		Lossi plats 2/Toom-Kooli 1, tel. 644 35 48, fax 644 23 45.	A blend of French and Russian culinary traditions in a very haute atmosphere. The innovative interior is too bright to be intimate, but worth a look in itself. A great way to splurge. Free health cocktail with any meal for Tallinn Card holders.
Creperie Chez Grigou		Müürivahe 23a, tel. 631 43 37.	It's all about atmosphere. Even after the occasional crunchy crepe, we still find ourselves drawn back to this candle-lit café, sharing a cafetiere of coffee and listening to syrupy chansons. Crepes (30 - 50EEK) come sweet or savoury; salads are generously sized.
Le Paris		Toompuiestee 27, tel. 667 71 05, fax 667 71 47.	The Grand Hotel Mercure's new restaurant is nearly as vast as its namesake city. Dishes on the a la carte menu start at 70EEK, while you can enjoy a full buffet dinner, from appetisers to dessert for 250EEK (lunch buffet 12:00 - 14:00, dinner 18:00 - 22:00). Come for brunch Sunday mornings at 11:00.
Baieri Kelder		Roosikrantsi 2a, tel. 631 39 94, fax. 631 39 92.	Any Bavarian with a hearty appetite would feel at home here. Portions are so huge that most appetisers are enough to satisfy. The Bavarian Cellar is also known as a great place for sharing a few pints.
Bierstube		Süda 7, tel./fax 646 18 47.	Just slightly off the beaten path, the Bierstube is a great place to relax with some artery-stopping German food in a tourist-free atmosphere.
Kabinet		Pärnu 48, tel./fax 644 09 54.	Flaming sausages and fried cheese. Wash it all down with a heifeweisse. The pool table in back attracts a young crowd. Weekday specials 36 - 46EEK.
Waikiki		Lai 49, tel.641 12 54/(8-250) 54 295.	Pacific Islanders are notoriously large people. A trip to this restaurant on the edge of Old Town may provide some clues as to why. Portions are enormous and tasty, though we can't personally vouch for their authenticity. Pork and soy sauce lovers will be very happy here.
Egeri Kelder		Roosikrantsi 6, tel. 644 84 15, tel./fax 641 15 55.	We can't vouch for the authenticity of the goulash, but it is tasty: a runny stew with tender chunks of meat. The cook could be a little bolder with the spices. The restaurant seems to be aiming a class too high with its interior. Rent their sauna for parties.
Kapten Tenkes		Pärnu 30, tel. 644 56 30.	The swashbuckling Captain Tenkes was the pride of the Magyars in Communist-era films. His namesake restaurant has similar pomp and flare: from the wandering fiddler to the giant carafes of wine.
Elevant		Vene 5, tel. 631 31 32.	Once a homey bar-cum-restaurant on the edge of Old Town, Elevant has risen from the ashes and been reincarnated as a classy restaurant just a few steps from Town Hall Square. Fortunately, prices for chicken tikka, biryani and raita are still just a tad below those elsewhere. Main dishes 70 - 100EEK. The weekday lunch buffet (12:00 - 15:00) is a good deal at 75EEK. Free pot of tea for Tallinn Card holders.
Kuldne Lõvi		Nunne 18, tel. 646 41 39.	The Golden Lion manages to cover most of the continent with Asian dishes from kebab (as an appetiser?) to a few menu items 'in the Chinese style'. Mains go for 60 - 90EEK in this tiered teal dining room. 12:00 - 24:00. 12:00 - 24:00.