In the middle of Riga Bay, quite close to the Latvian coast, you find the Estonian island Runö (Estonian: Ruhnu). It is an isolated island, and that is why a very special culture did persist for centuries.

History

Runö is one of the most important island in the Estonian_Swedish community. Here have people spoken Swedish for centuries, until most them moved to Sweden in 1944.

The origin of the islands name is not clear and have been discussed among scholars. One suggestion is that the name comes from the name of the Viking alphabet - Runes. another suggestion is that it comes from the Latvian word "ruonen"=seal. Still others reject that claiming that the Latvian language came to the are too late to influence the name of the island. In any case, the Swedish culture at Ruhnu, is of a very old age, and its origin disappears in the mists of prehistory.

The oldest written evidence of Ruhnu and it's Swedish population is dated back to 1341. According to the "episcopal letter" (an Ukas from the bishop of Curland), the inhabitants of Ruhnu should be judged according to "Swedish law". This was not only a matter of language. Swedish farmer had a stronger position compared to most european countries. The feudal rule of the Swedish great power period, or the tsaristic practice to treat farmers as property, never got root at Ruhnu. The peasants practiced fishing, farming and payed their taxes to different masters during the centuries. From time to time they had to use the old episcopal letter to save their relative freedom.

After the break down of tsaristic Russia, the Baltic Sates were formed. But nor Estonia, nor Latvia could claim the Ruhnu island, according to the people's nationality. In two letters two the Swedish King, the Ruhnu inhabitants them self asked to be a part of Sweden (!). In the end the people at the island got the right to choose which of the Baltic States they wanted to join. It became Estonia, maybe because the country had a Swedish speaking minority, something that was lacking in Latvia.

Per period between the wars meant the end of "the rule of Swedish law". The island was now a part of Estonia and under Estonian law. At the island the people spoke "Runsk", an old Swedish dialect. At the school they spoke Swedish.

At the end of the second world war, an agreement was made with the Nazi-German occupation power. Those who wanted could go to Sweden. Then the front approached in 1944 the population was evacuated. Men, who the Germans did not permit to move, fled in small boats to Sweden. That how a more than 700 hundred year old Swedish culture at Ruhnu ended.

In Soviet time many Estonian speaking families moved to the island. Efforts were made to build a fishing harbour at the SE point. The old houses with roofs of straw were gradually destroyed try weather and wind. Nowadays, only a few remnants of the old village remains. But the old wooden church (Estonia's oldest) from 17-th century is still there.

A dispute over fishing waters between Estonia and Latvia, have made Ruhnu come in the focus again. Both countries claim the island, and there is still no agreement. The Estonian state is eager to maintain a population at the island the year around. Today lives 60 Estonian speaking persons at the island.

During s/y Ellen's visit at the island in summer -97 we met a group of 30 Swedes visiting their old island. They were all former Ruhnu inhabitants or relatives to them. The purpose of the visit were, among others, to claim back lost property and land. Estonian authorities were at the island fore measuring. The situation was complicated. Estonian law considarates the right of both the old owners and the people living on the island today. In the air we felt negotiation, compromises and deals. Without doubt, Ruhnu will ones more have a Swedish influence. Some of the former Ruhnu Swedes already talked about building summer houses on the island.

Approaching

Sailing over Riga Bay to Runö is pure and simple sea-sailing. However, the waters close to the island, are shallow. You enter the harbour from SSE. The harbour need reconstruction and are open for winds from S and SE, N and NE. It is very difficult to find enough water depth in the harbour, except at the point of the very damaged southern pier. With winds from the wrong direction, the see very fast comes running with large waves.

Before entering the harbour you should call "Ruhnu border control" at the VHF for instructions. The depths in the harbour chart are not reliable. In reality you find sand banks in the middle of the inlet. Vessels with to large draught could anchor outside the harbour inlet during W ore NW winds.

It is not the easiest thing to go to Ruhnu, but it's fascinating history and isolated location, makes the effort well worth a try. But you have to have luck with the weather. The ideal is week wind from NW or W. It have been plans on a harbour restoration, but the money is lacking and nothing is decided. We talked with some of the Swedes about the possibility to place some anchoring buoys outside the harbour.